Checking in and stoked to see the results of this test. Thanks again to all who are involved.

Leon posted a part 1 of The experiment on Instagram this week, from one of the pictures it looks like the torque tests have begun

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Thanks Mike! Indeed we are torquing bolts!

You guys can keep up with the testing on IG, on our webpage, or on this thread - https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...-new-post.html. The webpage will have most of the detailed data, but I'll try to update all the other posts as well.

Right now I am in a bit of a delay as I'm not super happy with the 2,000 lb load cell I was using, and am hunting down a 10,000 lb load cell.

Any update here?

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I'm planning to post updates on the "Everything you always wanted to know... " thread, but I'm gathering up some additional supplies that became needed as the testing went on - @rickashay is sending me some more bolts, as I found that the friction goes up a LOT after one use, so I need more unused bolts.

Also I'm rounding up a 10K lbs load cell, to avoid extrapolation from the 2K I started with.

And I'm a one man shop with a real day job .

"It gets done when it's done". As that is the name of my garage and how I roll.. Easy Fellows as Leon is a busy man and I am sure he has a life as well. :-)

I recently installed a set (with the ARP bolts) on my '95 Tacoma. (about two weeks ago)

I literally replaced every single part on the front end so I really can't give any fair assessment of this product. But if I had to go back and do it again, I wouldn't buy them. I'd probably just buy new LBJs with the ARP bolts. If I were using the truck for hard core off-roading, then I might buy them. I think I was just in over my head and went overboard when I was piecing together my front end.

If any of you are on TacomaWorld, you can check it out. (CharlieTaco)

No one is going to guarantee that their product will prevent failure. Even big companies have disclaimers to avoid liability against failures when it comes to non OEM modifications.

The increased articulation (angles) of the uniball LBJ reduces the likelihood of maxing out the factory design when lifted over 2", which applies to the UBJ, too. I went SPC upper and installed cam eliminators to reduce the likelihood of a cam event.

I'm lifted 3" and want the comfort of knowing I'm not taking my truck to the max every time I wheel it. Plus I want the option to hulk smash (not jump) while wheeling - I overbuild and want the extra insurance and piece of mind. No one has to do what I do or agree with my opinions.

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It's not that I don't agree with you. I'm just thinking it probably wasn't worth it for me personally now looking back on it. I'd certainly feel better if they were a little cheaper.

Torque vs preload data is now available at Everything you always wanted to know about LBJ bolts

Hey, just wanted to see how it's working out for folks running the uniball conversions for a little while now. Did the Howe Racing dust boots work well? Any updates on the top caps (I recall hearing the 3D printed ones AF sells don't fit with CVs)

Thanks!

Mine are doing well. I bungled the threads on my passenger side the other day so I took it off for the time being while I wait for a new lower misalignment - the ball still move freely but firmly, no play or slop in the joint at all. I did notice quite a few shavings from the Teflon liner inside so I suspect I'll be rebuilding them with a new ball next year, but for the time being I feel fine running them as is
Boots are doing wonders, not a single complaint in that department. Josh started selling an option for boots on his website; some cheap little tie rod boot that goes on with a zip tie. Probably a better idea than putting on the Howe boots with silicone tbh. Either one of those would work if you want a boot
The top caps definitely need a redesign, if you have a 3D printer it would be a good opportunity to play around for a solution. I had to put mine in a lathe and shave down the top quite a decent ways to give them a chance but the outter seals on the CVs still wore away a good groove in the caps. It didn't wear through completely, but the one I just took off was literally paper thin and I accidentally poked a small hole with my finger. In hopes of some extra protection/a failsafe I punched out a small rubber disc from a ~1-2mm thick sheet the same size as the interior of the cap and used some Permatex #2 to glue it down - and with the cap back on the upper misalignment doesn't contact the rubber at all. So there's still some bit of room to work with clearly
Overall I'm real happy with them. No squeaking yet most importantly! The top caps are my only complaint really.