06-02-2022, 09:40 AM
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#31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeT4R
How long have you ran your Fumoto valve for now? I’ve been nervous about running one, but decided it would be worth a try. I also ran PUP for about 30K+ miles and Blackstone sent me a good report. TBN was at like 2.2 on the sample and it had 4,468 miles on it when I sent it in.
I was pleased to read good things about the Kirkland Signature full syn oil. Do you ever run oversized oil filters? I’ve also never heard of Penta air filters before. I’ve had great results with OEM so far so I’ll stick with them/Denso.
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The fumoto valve has been installed for years, never had an issue. Installed it once and forgot about it.
I also had them run my TBN at the same time
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1999 Toyota 4Runner SR5 Sport 4WD, V6 5-Speed e-Locker-> 4WD 4runner Journal Thread
1999 Toyota 4Runner SR5 Un-Sported 2WD, V6 Auto -> 2WD 4runner Journal Thread
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Last edited by octanejunkie; 06-02-2022 at 09:44 AM.
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06-02-2022, 12:19 PM
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#32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by octanejunkie
The fumoto valve has been installed for years, never had an issue. Installed it once and forgot about it.
I also had them run my TBN at the same time
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Looks good! I plan to send them another sample after a few oil changes with the new Kirkland stuff. Wanna wash out all the residual PUP that may be leftover or mixed in with it. Maybe at 330K or so. I’m half tempted to send them a sample of my ATF at my next drain & fill (which will be January of 2023)
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06-02-2022, 03:14 PM
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#33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeT4R
Looks good! I plan to send them another sample after a few oil changes with the new Kirkland stuff. Wanna wash out all the residual PUP that may be leftover or mixed in with it. Maybe at 330K or so. I’m half tempted to send them a sample of my ATF at my next drain & fill (which will be January of 2023)
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My 4WD drive is currently running conventional, I'm going to pull a sample and send it to Blackstone now, then do one oil change with semi synthetic adding half a can of seafoam to the crankcase when I drain that, then switch over to Kirkland branded full synthetic
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1999 Toyota 4Runner SR5 Sport 4WD, V6 5-Speed e-Locker-> 4WD 4runner Journal Thread
1999 Toyota 4Runner SR5 Un-Sported 2WD, V6 Auto -> 2WD 4runner Journal Thread
1959 Chevy 3100 1/2 Ton Pickup EVERYTHING done 'cept paint and body
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06-02-2022, 03:19 PM
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#34
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Monthly photo, 6/2/22
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06-02-2022, 04:11 PM
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#35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeT4R
How long have you ran your Fumoto valve for now? I’ve been nervous about running one, but decided it would be worth a try.
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I don't understand the nervousness at all. It is a well machined piece of brass and a stainless steel ball. I ran one for many years (close to 150k miles) on a LOWERED WRX with the valve about 3.5" from the ground, including offroading (mud, rocks, snow, deserts, forests, etc.), before they started shipping them with the stupid little extra plastic locker. There are 0 worries, even without the extra plastic bit. It takes force in two directions, in order and around a 90* turn to open it up...
The only complaint might be cost, but the ease of use is worth it to me. The only vehicle that doesn't have one (yet!) is our Chevy Volt - but that only gets an oil change every 1-2 years...
For oil filters - I like the OEM filter simply due to the actual o-ring seal. Most (all?) other oil filters use the square-cut gaskets, which take more force (filter torque) to seal correctly and remove than the OEM filter with o-ring. I use the (slightly) larger filter meant for the 2UZ (the "D3" filter, I think).
-Charlie
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'99 4Runner SR5 Auto - 4WD swapped
'89 Camry Alltrac LE 3S-GTE 5spd
'17 Chevy Volt Premier
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Previous: '88 Camry Alltrac LE 3S-GE BEAMS, 90 Camry 3S-GTE, 90 Camry DX, '03 WRX wagon, '08 Outback XT
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06-02-2022, 07:05 PM
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#36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phattyduck
I don't understand the nervousness at all. It is a well machined piece of brass and a stainless steel ball. I ran one for many years (close to 150k miles) on a LOWERED WRX with the valve about 3.5" from the ground, including offroading (mud, rocks, snow, deserts, forests, etc.), before they started shipping them with the stupid little extra plastic locker. There are 0 worries, even without the extra plastic bit. It takes force in two directions, in order and around a 90* turn to open it up...
The only complaint might be cost, but the ease of use is worth it to me. The only vehicle that doesn't have one (yet!) is our Chevy Volt - but that only gets an oil change every 1-2 years...
For oil filters - I like the OEM filter simply due to the actual o-ring seal. Most (all?) other oil filters use the square-cut gaskets, which take more force (filter torque) to seal correctly and remove than the OEM filter with o-ring. I use the (slightly) larger filter meant for the 2UZ (the "D3" filter, I think).
-Charlie
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So because I don’t run a front skid, that’s where the majority of my nervousness comes from. The fact alone that it’s just out in the open and exposed to anything. A friend of mine told me he’s had three Fumoto valves in the past, 2 of which resulted in catastrophic engine failure. I definitely see where there must be purpose and intent in order to open the valve and I’m wondering if maybe he just had some bad luck. Either way, it makes me nervous because of no skid. I’m gonna run with it, though, and see how it performs over time.
As far as filters go, I have to agree with you there. OEM gaskets are pre-lubricated and they just fit perfectly. They feel “soft” for lack of a better word when mating them to the engine vs. an aftermarket filter. I also run the D3’s when I’m not using a Wix/Napa Gold product. The o-ring on the Napa Gold is a hard piece of rubber compared to what’s on the D3’s.
I’ve ran mostly OEM everything over the years, but wanted to try experimenting with some aftermarket stuff. Done a lot of research. Lots of opinions. Lots of info. Decided Wix and Napa Gold (made by Wix from what I understand) gave me some confidence in venturing out. I’ll probably keep them in rotation— Toyota filters, then Wix or Napa Gold, and just switch back and forth to satisfy my weirdness. I’m a nut when it comes to this stuff even though most of it probably doesn’t matter, lol.
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06-02-2022, 08:23 PM
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#37
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Join Date: May 2013
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The factory "skid" is not, it's a bottom engine cover at best, but the oil pan is pretty far above the cross member the factory skid bolts to. I think you'd have to high center the truck to tear a Fumoto off
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1999 Toyota 4Runner SR5 Sport 4WD, V6 5-Speed e-Locker-> 4WD 4runner Journal Thread
1999 Toyota 4Runner SR5 Un-Sported 2WD, V6 Auto -> 2WD 4runner Journal Thread
1959 Chevy 3100 1/2 Ton Pickup EVERYTHING done 'cept paint and body
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06-03-2022, 08:02 AM
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#38
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Join Date: Jun 2022
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Sweet build love to see a 4runner getting broken in.
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06-14-2022, 09:32 AM
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#39
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Figured I'd put this here for anyone that may want to see some real life stats. This was my first and only Blackstone report that I've had run so far and it was from May of 2021. I was very impressed with the results I was given and the information they provided me with. I definitely look forward to doing another UOA in the near future since I've switched oil brands. I'll give it a few oil changes before I pull and send off another sample. It should be noted that I used a YZZD3 filter during this oil run for anyone who's wondering.
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06-18-2022, 11:29 AM
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#40
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So the other day I attempted to perform a drain and fill on my front diff. Getting ahead of myself, I cracked open the fill plug with relative ease, go to the store to pick up some synthetic 75W-90 and return home to crack the drain plug. Go to start working on the drain plug and I stripped the dang hex bolt. So yesterday I went to Harbor Freight and picked this up for $9.53:
In addition to this, I special ordered new fill and drain plugs from Lexus, which are less likely to strip out since you can attach a normal wrench to them. A HUGE thank you goes out to
@ Bad Luck
for telling me about them. He even did the leg work for me and told me the p/n's associated with them. I'll pick those up from the Lexus dealer in the next day or two. I plan to attack the stripped drain bolt with full force first thing Monday morning. Hopefully this extractor set will work perfectly. Will post pictures and updates then.
Last edited by JoeT4R; 06-18-2022 at 11:38 AM.
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06-20-2022, 12:59 PM
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#41
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Well, I tried tackling the front diff drain bolt today with negative results. I was able to get the 3/8" extractor inside the hex head once I rounded off the drain bolt some more, but every time I'd hammer the extractor in and began turning, it would just pop right back out. I may have to swallow my pride on this one and take it somewhere to be removed. I just don't want to have to pay to have it done. Nor does it feel very good to be defeated by a drain bolt.
But because the weather is too beautiful today to waste, I went ahead and did my rear diff fluid. I couldn't help myself and had to do some wrenching outside. I ended up putting in some SuperTech 75W-90 full syn, which originally I had purchased for the front diff job. The rear diff takes 80W-90 per the owner's manual, however I read somewhere on here that a user had some email correspondence with Toyota and they said that 75W-90 was acceptable for use in the rear diff. So we'll see how it holds up. I drained out some AMSOIL 80W-90 that was still in good shape and clear in color. Last drain and fill was sometime in the Spring of 2021. Definitely 15K+ miles ago. So maybe I'll make it a point to do yearly drain and fills of it since it gets used the most. There were some metal flakes on the magnetic drain plug but nothing horrible. Pics below for reference.
Date: 6/20/22
Mileage: 314,507
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06-21-2022, 07:33 AM
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#42
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Join Date: May 2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeT4R
Well, I tried tackling the front diff drain bolt today with negative results. I was able to get the 3/8" extractor inside the hex head once I rounded off the drain bolt some more, but every time I'd hammer the extractor in and began turning, it would just pop right back out. I may have to swallow my pride on this one and take it somewhere to be removed. I just don't want to have to pay to have it done. Nor does it feel very good to be defeated by a drain bolt.
But because the weather is too beautiful today to waste, I went ahead and did my rear diff fluid. I couldn't help myself and had to do some wrenching outside. I ended up putting in some SuperTech 75W-90 full syn, which originally I had purchased for the front diff job. The rear diff takes 80W-90 per the owner's manual, however I read somewhere on here that a user had some email correspondence with Toyota and they said that 75W-90 was acceptable for use in the rear diff. So we'll see how it holds up. I drained out some AMSOIL 80W-90 that was still in good shape and clear in color. Last drain and fill was sometime in the Spring of 2021. Definitely 15K+ miles ago. So maybe I'll make it a point to do yearly drain and fills of it since it gets used the most. There were some metal flakes on the magnetic drain plug but nothing horrible. Pics below for reference.
Date: 6/20/22
Mileage: 314,507
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Sucks about the drain plug. Some guys heat the area around the plug. A few folks have welded nuts to stripped drain plugs to remove. I got lucky and mine opened up with a long breaker bar.
The duty cycle of diff oil is 30K miles, IIRC
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1999 Toyota 4Runner SR5 Sport 4WD, V6 5-Speed e-Locker-> 4WD 4runner Journal Thread
1999 Toyota 4Runner SR5 Un-Sported 2WD, V6 Auto -> 2WD 4runner Journal Thread
1959 Chevy 3100 1/2 Ton Pickup EVERYTHING done 'cept paint and body
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06-21-2022, 07:40 AM
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#43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by octanejunkie
Sucks about the drain plug. Some guys heat the area around the plug. A few folks have welded nuts to stripped drain plugs to remove. I got lucky and mine opened up with a long breaker bar.
The duty cycle of diff oil is 30K miles, IIRC
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The only thing I haven’t tried is heat, but I’m just going to leave it be until I get over to the guy’s house to weld the hex bit on. Must be a great feeling to have yours open up with ease. I used a 1/2” breaker bar on it with no positive results. Oh well.
It has definitely surpassed 30K miles… last time it was done was in December? 2014… so yeah… lol. Transfer case and rear diff have been serviced regularly. I ended up doing my rear diff yesterday after a year and two months (15K, 16K, 17K miles?) and the fluid was still very clean. It was AMSOIL, too, if that counts for anything. I put in SuperTech 75W-90 that I had on hand since it was supposed to be for the front diff. We’ll see how it holds up— I plan to do yearly changes of the front/rear diff from now on. Metal flaking on the drain plug wasn’t too bad, either. I’m just a little nervous because the rear calls for 80W-90, so hopefully the 75W doesn’t do anything it shouldn’t…
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06-21-2022, 08:31 AM
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#44
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You can pound a impact torx head into the hex plugs to get them out and replace them. I think it's [50 or 55 ish]. Mine one 4 runner had that done to it by a po. I just replaced the plug once I removed it with a new one.
We were trying to figure out why the hex wouldn't fit until we figured out what they did. Then just put the proper sized torx in and it came right out.
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7 3rd gens listed in the build thread (2 are parts mobiles)
Build Thread: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...os-builds.html
Brillo's Bucket Fluid Ex changer: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...ml#post3358086
Sparks Plugs Wire and Coil Information: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...on-5vz-fe.html
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06-21-2022, 12:47 PM
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#45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brillo_76
You can pound a impact torx head into the hex plugs to get them out and replace them. I think it's [50 or 55 ish]. Mine one 4 runner had that done to it by a po. I just replaced the plug once I removed it with a new one.
We were trying to figure out why the hex wouldn't fit until we figured out what they did. Then just put the proper sized torx in and it came right out.
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Well given that it’s pretty much completely rounded off now, I feel like that won’t be an option for me. Such a headache this has become. But either way it’s coming out soon. And I can’t wait!
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