Copy that, the starter rebuild process took care of that.

Excellent idea, thank you!

It’s been my experience that rebuilds only replace what is broken.

They may never have greased the bendix or replaced the bearings/bushings. Just slapped a cheep contact kit and put it back on the shelf.


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Yeah, that's a good possibility since the PO replaced it with a Carquest unit.

Yeah, not a bad idea. Orielleys' auto did it with their load tester gizmo and more than like AutoZone will have the same thing but it's always good to have second opinion.

I have a carbon pile load tester at home and the battery checked out fine.

The 97 project I bought needing an engine and trans came with a CarQuest Alt. Three years later the brushes were worn. So I put an OEM brush set in it. Have yet to test it. It’s my spare. My 88 Daytona needed an AC clutch so I bought a reman compressor. Yea, the compressor had a pretty paint job and the dirty clutch coil and a nick in one of its wires rendering it useless. They never even tested anything.


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Yes, that's good. Lowest acceptable cranking voltage is 9.6v I believe. Monitoring cranking voltage is really a load test on the battery. Agree with others that said to do a voltage drop test on the cable running to the starter and make sure the connection is secure.

Well folks,

My daughter came over last night so we ran some quick checks before the monsoons hit and we ran for indoors.

Here's a video of the starter pulling 400 amps My normal DC clamp is only good for 100amp max, so I had to pull out the big gun which is 400 or 1000 amps. In the video I mistakenly said 400/100 amps.

Anyway, as you can see, the starter still cranks slowly even with a second vehicle giving it lots of juice. Charging voltage is around 13.5ish but that starter is drawing down a one year old battery quite a bit.

The clock is ticking for us to depart on Monday for Ouray, CO for a week of wheeling and camping so this might have to be what it is until we return. I have lots of prep work to do for this trip as this is the first time my 16yo daughter is taking her own 4runner with her friends and following me up there. Prepping two rigs is quite a bit of pressure so I'm prioritizing my To Do list accordingly.

If the videos give you more or different insights, please pipe up. As always, constructive feedback is always appreciated.

Video link Shared album - A. Ali - Google Photos


Cheers.

Ali

Attached Images

   

The only specs I found on the starter are no load amps.

100a for the 1.8kw starter
90a for the 1.4kw starter

I can put my clamp on on my 97 and see what it pulls but not anytime soon


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That high of an amperage draw leads me to believe you have high resistance in the positive cable to the starter. Were you able to do a voltage drop on the positive cable while cranking?

I feel you're right and haven't had a chance to crawl under there at the moment. She's gutted the interior and I'm running wires all over the interior!!! That voltage drop check is on my to do list.

Like @spartacus said, fuel pump is most likely the issue. Has the filter been changed lately?

Is the start positive cable going from the starter to the battery getting warm?

Also verify your engine block ground is good and clean just like the positive wire. As it right below the oil filter it can easily get messed up.

If it is not the Battery, nor the cables, then the only thing left is a bad starter issue..

Unless there is a pile of resistance the engine itself causing the slow spin which is extremely unlikely.

Recently on a couple starters in my fleet, I've had to pull the brush cap off and clean up the commutator.

This is my Honda 4 wheeler - acted like the battery was dead.
Subaru did the same. Both cranked no problem after 5 seconds with the emory in the lathe.

What does the fuel pump have to do with the slow cranking speed?