Clicking when in the at heavy turning is very classic sign of a failing CV joint. I had it full me once with a loose lug nuts. So I would thoroughly check everything out in that area then if everything else is good. Suspect the CV joint. +1 on possible CV joint issue.
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2001 Limited 4WD - 346+K - SunfireRed\Thunder Cloud; - 265/75/16 Michelin A/T2s - Fat Pat's 1.5" BL - StopTech ANGLED rotors - In series 699 trans cooler, New Yota1 transmission, All new OEM suspension front to rear.
Another vote for a bad CV axle. The clicking is a classic sign of a worn joint. But, I've found it's usually the outside wheel on a turn is the one that will click because more pressure is on that tire. So, on a left turn, the right wheel will actually have more force being applied to it. On a right turn, the left wheel will have more force.
I'd check for wheel bearing play too. Jack up the wheel, grab it at the 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock positions and push and pull with opposing force to feel for any play in the bearing.
If you determine it's the CV axle going bad, the video below will help you out. You can skip all the rebooting and boot stretch mod because if your axle is clicking, it is done and needs to be replaced.
t
__________________ "My old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools. I can fix it!"
Another vote for a bad CV axle. The clicking is a classic sign of a worn joint. But, I've found it's usually the outside wheel on a turn is the one that will click because more pressure is on that tire. So, on a left turn, the right wheel will actually have more force being applied to it. On a right turn, the left wheel will have more force.
t
Tim, is that because of shifting weight (as we turn left, the body leans right)?
Tim, is that because of shifting weight (as we turn left, the body leans right)?
Yes, correct. When I had a CV start clicking on a Subaru Outback, I got in a parking lot and started turning tight radius turn both directions with the windows rolled down. I noticed on a tight left turn, I could hear the right CV clicking. On a tight right turn, I heard nothing.
__________________ "My old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools. I can fix it!"
Does anyone know what the part number is for an oem cv axle? Was on a Toyota parts website and saw two parts listed as cv axle kits, but couldn’t tell the difference between the two. Quite a big price difference although.
Another vote for a bad CV axle. The clicking is a classic sign of a worn joint. But, I've found it's usually the outside wheel on a turn is the one that will click because more pressure is on that tire. So, on a left turn, the right wheel will actually have more force being applied to it. On a right turn, the left wheel will have more force.
I'd check for wheel bearing play too. Jack up the wheel, grab it at the 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock positions and push and pull with opposing force to feel for any play in the bearing.
If you determine it's the CV axle going bad, the video below will help you out. You can skip all the rebooting and boot stretch mod because if your axle is clicking, it is done and needs to be replaced.
t
Definitely clicking from drivers side tire area when I turn hard left
The kit is a rebuild kit, the click is here to stay, permanent damage. The kit will just keep dirt/mud out and keep it from getting worse yet click will stay.
The other is well the whole part, no more click and less change in your pocket, your choice.
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2001 Limited 4WD - 346+K - SunfireRed\Thunder Cloud; - 265/75/16 Michelin A/T2s - Fat Pat's 1.5" BL - StopTech ANGLED rotors - In series 699 trans cooler, New Yota1 transmission, All new OEM suspension front to rear.
The kit is a rebuild kit, the click is here to stay, permanent damage. The kit will just keep dirt/mud out and keep it from getting worse yet click will stay.
The other is well the whole part, no more click and less change in your pocket, your choice.
The rubber boot, clamps and grease. Lower priced kit is only one side, other is 2 sides. There are a couple rather poor images located here for an '01, dial in your MY to be sure.
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2001 Limited 4WD - 346+K - SunfireRed\Thunder Cloud; - 265/75/16 Michelin A/T2s - Fat Pat's 1.5" BL - StopTech ANGLED rotors - In series 699 trans cooler, New Yota1 transmission, All new OEM suspension front to rear.
I bought the TrakMotive TO8043ET Extended Travel axles from O'Reilly's. My right CV was toast and there were no OEM axles available in North America. The track motive part is designed for these trucks that have been lifted. The OEM part is designed for a stock height truck.
My .02
Hope this helps.
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2000 4Runner SR5 Manual Trans Federal Emissions - Eibach Pro-Truck coilovers, LC 7.5/Tokico Black, JBA UCA, SPC 25945 RLLs, Mevotech Supreme RULs, TrakMotive Xtended Travel CV Axles TO-8043ET, South Bend Rally Clutch, ES & Whiteline Bushings, MagnaFlow Cat-Back, Deck-Plate Mod, 4.56 Yukon Gears, Yukon Grizzly Rear Locker, Bushwacker Flares, 16x8 Wheels w/ 285/75 General Grabber AT2, 229K+ Miles
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