I can't drain the oil right now to see what it looks like due to a stripped drain plug, but it's clearly got enough in there, so I'm good, right?
Sounds like you could use this video for ideas on how to get that stripped drain plug out. When you finally get it out, don't use a ton of force to put the new one in. If you ever have a hard time getting one out again, heat is your friend. Heat up the differential around the plug, not the plug itself. The heat helps break the bond of the copper washer with the diff and drain plug. With the proper application of sufficient heat, you'll never strip one of these drain plugs again.
Lexus makes a plug that fits our differentials that has a regular hex head rather than an allen head. Lexus hex drain plug #90341-24016
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Sounds like you could use this video for ideas on how to get that stripped drain plug out.
I did give that method a shot but didn't have any luck. I may try again before giving up and going to a shop, but it's hard in the city with no off street parking... Thanks for the info on the Lexus plug though, gonna order a few of those and avoid this problem all together in the future.
I did give that method a shot but didn't have any luck. I may try again before giving up and going to a shop, but it's hard in the city with no off street parking... Thanks for the info on the Lexus plug though, gonna order a few of those and avoid this problem all together in the future.
I used a chisel to cut a shallow groove in the plug face at 5:00 then hammered it off
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I did give that method a shot but didn't have any luck. I may try again before giving up and going to a shop, but it's hard in the city with no off street parking... Thanks for the info on the Lexus plug though, gonna order a few of those and avoid this problem all together in the future.
If it's not totally stripped out and you can still get a decent bight with the allen socket, you should be able to get it off with sufficient heat. Heat up around the plug for around 30 seconds to a minute and give it a shot. If it still won't budge, give it another 30 seconds of heat and keep doing that until the plug gives with moderate force.
If it's stripped out completely, try the chisel method
@octanejunkie
mentioned.
Or, you can weld a nut on. I bet a muffler shop would do it for you for no more than $20.
__________________ "My old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools. I can fix it!"
If it's not totally stripped out and you can still get a decent bight with the allen socket, you should be able to get it off with sufficient heat. Heat up around the plug for around 30 seconds to a minute and give it a shot. If it still won't budge, give it another 30 seconds of heat and keep doing that until the plug gives with moderate force.
If it's stripped out completely, try the chisel method
@octanejunkie
mentioned.
Or, you can weld a nut on. I bet a muffler shop would do it for you for no more than $20.
This for sure.
You can even try to hammer a torx bit in. Anything that will bite. I have an impact driver set for this sort of thing, and one thing I’ve done the pass is fined a flat head bit that can just barely get wedged in. Then take the impact driver and a hammer. Pop loose every time.
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The simplest way I found out to get a stripped 10mm Alan hex plug out is to use a t55 torx impact bit. Hammer it in, and the plug will come out. After a replace the plug , I cover the head in mp grease so I never have issues again.
I am looking for the replacement aluminum crush washers in all these diff plugs in copper as if they are flat and the proper dimensions. You can reuse them forever. As both copper and aluminum flats are perfect for reuse. I don't care for the single use washers myself. Seems wasteful to me.
Appears, these are still on back order. Anyone in the Spokane/North Idaho area has one they would like to rent out.
I recently found out ECGS sells one. They have it offered as an addition to bushing installer, but I bet if you call them, they will sell it separately to you. When you call, tell them Timmy the Toolman says Hi.
I recently found out ECGS sells one. They have it offered as an addition to bushing installer, but I bet if you call them, they will sell it separately to you. When you call, tell them Timmy the Toolman says Hi.
You're better than me. That page I linked looks like you can only buy the seal driver puck as an addition to the bushing driver. I couldn't figure out how to buy it on its own.
__________________ "My old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools. I can fix it!"
You're better than me. That page I linked looks like you can only buy the seal driver puck as an addition to the bushing driver. I couldn't figure out how to buy it on its own.
Maybe I didn't understand the assignment, I'm rarely better than anything lol
The description says:
Specially designed tool for installing the 7.5 bushing into the housing. Bushing pilots onto tool to ensure bushing is driven flush.
Also with the option to add the seal installer puck. This puck is designed so that the lip of the seal fits into the indent of the puck to ensure the seal is driven flush.
The puck can be added for $15 more
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@mtbtim
what's the best way you've found to install the outer CV dust shield 90080-30028 on the CV axle?
Today I learned that this is a replaceable part, which means I can salvage the CV I've been saving as a core rather than messing with a torn boot on another one.
Saved me a hundred bucks, thanks for that.
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