I replaced my clutch master cylinder with an oem one and I have a lot of air in the system now. So the procedure I tried doing was:

1. Hold the clutch pedal down with an ice scraper
2. Loosen the hydraulic line and let air out
3. Tighten down the line again
4. Release the pedal

I only did this process twice because I'm not doing this under ideal conditions (parking garage). I'm parked at a very slight incline with the car facing up, so I'm not sure if the angle matters.

The first time I did this it sounded like some air released, but the level didn't change. The 2nd time I didn't see any change. Is this the correct process?

If all else fails is bleeding it from the slave cylinder bleeder and option?

This is the only option. Bleed it just like brakes. Have someone press down clutch pedal, open bleeder screw at slave cylinder, close bleeder screw, release clutch pedal, check/ top off fluid, repeat process until air is bleed out of system. Some people swear by bench bleeding clutch master cylinders but I have always had success with this method.

The manual clutch is gravity feed. So you just bleed off the slave cylinder. You can easily get the air of out the line. With 2 people. :-)

I got the clutch to a better spot. I stuck with the method I was using because there isn't an easy way to do the CLC method. I did get air spirting out when I'd loosen the screw and the fluid level dropped.

The pedal doesn't just feel like a spring anymore, it is still a little less firm than I would like. But maybe it's it's just a product of a new clutch master cylinder moving better.

Tomorrow I'll put the air box back in and go to an autozone where I'm not constantly looking over my shoulder. I don't know where bubbles would stay, they float shouldn't they go up towards the master?

I always just bleed toyota manual hydraulic via the bleeders. This has been from the 1980s. I did it with 2 people. As I didn't have a fancy tool to pressurize the resvior.

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I don't have another person, I've bled from the slave cylinder before and it's the way to go. I might of been able to bleed it from the slave cylinder by holding the pedal down the same way, but I don't have the tube to put over the valve either.

What would an improperly bled clutch system feel like? My clutch doesn't feel as firm as before, but it's hard to tell why. It's a new oem CMC so I would expect everything to feel smoother, and then there is the adjustment screw that I tried my best to match the old one, or it could be air in the system.

I went around the parking lot and went up to third briefly. Apart from pedal feel, the clutch feels shorter, lighter, but I don't get any grinding from the gears when I shift. I can adjust to this new feel, but I want to get as close to what I had before.

You could try the gravity bleed method that some people use but either way you have to bleed it from the slave bleeder screw to get 100% of the air out. Get a piece of hose and small container, open the slave bleeder screw and let gravity do its thing. Or, option #2 and probably your best bet with one person is using Russell speed bleeders. I'm pretty sure the Russell P/N 639560 for our brakes will also fit the slave but you'll have to double check that.

I like speed bleeders myself. However, some forum members don't care for them. Being one person. I agree, that's probably your best bet to bleed it out..

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If you still have air in the lines the pedal will feel spongy. Did you match the adjustment on your new and old master where it connects to the pedal linkage?

If you still need to bleed it use a 2x4 and put it between the seat front and the clutch pedal with the pedal engaged then open and close the bleeder on the slave cylinder. Repeat that a couple times and keep an eye on your fluid level.

I got the pedal feeling normal again. I didn't need to do much, I put a tube over the bleeder and saw no air bubbles coming out (didn't do the 2x4). I made sure the linkage was was set like the old one before I installed it.

I did the bleeder on Sunday, and it feels exactly the same now. It feels similar, too similar I'm starting to question why I didn't rebuild the old one and save 210$.

Oh well

Good to hear you got it bled...

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