09-06-2023, 09:17 AM
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#16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 19963.4lsr5
I doubt it’s ethanol. Or my fleet of vehicles would all require them.
Burning oil, running rich. Yep.
Driving with a flashing check engine light. Most defiantly yes.
Antifreeze. Not really or mine once again would be shot and at 299,890 miles it’s doing fine and sets the cat readiness monitor on my first drive cycle test.
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Your probably correct. I am just trying to brainstorm as the possibles for melting down the cat. :-)
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7 3rd gens listed in the build thread (2 are parts mobiles)
Build Thread: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...os-builds.html
Brillo's Bucket Fluid Ex changer: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...ml#post3358086
Sparks Plugs Wire and Coil Information: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...on-5vz-fe.html
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09-06-2023, 11:08 AM
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#17
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Join Date: Jan 2021
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brillo_76
Your probably correct. I am just trying to brainstorm as the possibles for melting down the cat. :-)
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The usual culprit is a lack of service around spark plugs and older vehicles. With the introduction of widespread fuel injection somehow people forgot to maintain their cars I guess. I've ran into this maybe a half dozen times or so with older gasoline rigs of various makes. Especially true with Subaru and Toyota or any machine that utilizes waste spark technology. Not as much of an issue around GM as they went to high energy ignitions and high quality delco spark plugs pretty early on.
This current 99 4Runner that I have has the same issue. Bought it cheap because I didn't run right, and it really needed was a tuneup. The plugs were worn out beyond belief. The problem with that is that you can create an incomplete burn situation, and it doesn't take a whole lot of extra fuel load to take the converters beyond their threshold and cook them.
Any easy test to see if your converters are fried is if the downstream pipe temperature is higher than the upstream inlet pipe temperature using an infrared thermometer.
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99’ Black “Highlander” sport, oak, 5VZ auto, 4.30 axle, e-lock, 265/75 Grabber X3,, Bilstein 6112 (2”) front 5160 rear shocks, OME 2906 springs, Durobumps, 4x Inovations front middle rear skid plates, 4XI square TRD tube sliders, lil skips tank skid, lotus dev RCA skids, overland custom sway bar links, Amp’d hidden winch, warn Vr Evo 10s
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09-06-2023, 11:10 AM
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#18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jross20
All right guys, I stuck a flashlight on both ends and no matter what I do I cannot see a single lick of light through the other side.
Should I be able to see any light at all? While the exit side looks clean to me, or as clean as it can probably be, I can't see into the other side without cutting the pipe.
But like I said, I shined a flashlight on both ends and I can't see anything on the other side. I even tried it with the lights off in the dark just to see if there was any bit of light at all coming into the front...nothing.
I believe based on this and the result of the pinging being fixed, we can conclude that the old one was bad.
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Assuming you're only looking through one converter, and your vision is not obstructed by a pipe bend, you should be able to observe light passing through some what.
If your trying to look through both converter's at the same time I doubt you'll see anything.
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99’ Black “Highlander” sport, oak, 5VZ auto, 4.30 axle, e-lock, 265/75 Grabber X3,, Bilstein 6112 (2”) front 5160 rear shocks, OME 2906 springs, Durobumps, 4x Inovations front middle rear skid plates, 4XI square TRD tube sliders, lil skips tank skid, lotus dev RCA skids, overland custom sway bar links, Amp’d hidden winch, warn Vr Evo 10s
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09-06-2023, 11:13 AM
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#19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3bears
anyone try that catakleen stuff, however it is spelled...snake oil you put in your gas.....does that stuff work ?
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I personally haven't had any success with it the two vehicles i've tried it in. A friend of mine that turned me onto the product is about 3 for 5 for success on it.
I think if it will work, it's certainly a cheap product. I have a feeling it has to do with the fact that if the metals inside the converter have been damaged due to excessive heat, it probably won't work. If it's just dirty or partially clogged due to contaminants, but hasn't been overheated, it may work.
It's worth a shot for sure.
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99’ Black “Highlander” sport, oak, 5VZ auto, 4.30 axle, e-lock, 265/75 Grabber X3,, Bilstein 6112 (2”) front 5160 rear shocks, OME 2906 springs, Durobumps, 4x Inovations front middle rear skid plates, 4XI square TRD tube sliders, lil skips tank skid, lotus dev RCA skids, overland custom sway bar links, Amp’d hidden winch, warn Vr Evo 10s
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09-06-2023, 06:47 PM
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#20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Romeo1
The usual culprit is a lack of service around spark plugs and older vehicles. With the introduction of widespread fuel injection somehow people forgot to maintain their cars I guess. I've ran into this maybe a half dozen times or so with older gasoline rigs of various makes. Especially true with Subaru and Toyota or any machine that utilizes waste spark technology. Not as much of an issue around GM as they went to high energy ignitions and high quality delco spark plugs pretty early on.
This current 99 4Runner that I have has the same issue. Bought it cheap because I didn't run right, and it really needed was a tuneup. The plugs were worn out beyond belief. The problem with that is that you can create an incomplete burn situation, and it doesn't take a whole lot of extra fuel load to take the converters beyond their threshold and cook them.
Any easy test to see if your converters are fried is if the downstream pipe temperature is higher than the upstream inlet pipe temperature using an infrared thermometer.
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Heck Tetanus 1 actually had an spark plug electrode snap off and parts of it are still in the piston ( Before i owned it) The PO thought he was loosing rod or something. When he caused it by not changing the plugs. I see wear on the plugs are gone... You know how long that would take to cause that. Probably the original plugs in 215K...lol
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7 3rd gens listed in the build thread (2 are parts mobiles)
Build Thread: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...os-builds.html
Brillo's Bucket Fluid Ex changer: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...ml#post3358086
Sparks Plugs Wire and Coil Information: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...on-5vz-fe.html
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09-09-2023, 10:44 PM
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#21
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Join Date: Oct 2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jross20
Oh man, tell me about it. I mean in general bad pinging like that is scary anyway, but then when it just seems bizarre and doesn't make any sense it really makes you feel like something is really wrong.
And you know it just really sucked having to get premium and then just driving it knowing that something was wrong, but that I had no idea what it was.
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Don't complain too much, premium is $5.50 here where I live and I have to run it. I know you don't pay that much for premium in Georgia!
I hope your grandpa is getting the best care that he can as that's a tough diagnosis. I don't know if it's possible or not but try and spend as much quality time with him as you can. Lots of great stories and life advice can be gained from those that have lived long lives before us.
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09-10-2023, 01:25 AM
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#22
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Location: Santa Monica, CA
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Real Name: Keith
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gamefreakgc
Don't complain too much, premium is $5.50 here where I live and I have to run it. I know you don't pay that much for premium in Georgia!
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I was a premium user in my 97 until CA gas prices went super high a couple years ago. I tried the "mid grade" as an experiment and so far it's been fine. Regular always caused a light pinging when accelerating uphill.
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09-10-2023, 10:18 AM
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#23
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Georgia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brillo_76
Mostly if the cat webbing is not all melted to a blob. Or just gone it's from running too rich. Newer vehicles will tell you that cat is burned out by giving you a too fast airflow error. The o2 sensors can tell the cat isn't functioning properly or gone.
What lead up to this? Like you put high flow injectors in and the cat couldn't compensate.
Was it buring coolant for a while?
Burning large amounts of oi?
If not, I am wondering if this is the long term effect running ethonal in the gas and thus damaging them.
Just a thought and can be nothing.
As something plugged that cat up..
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The only thing I can think of, is that time I one of the ignition coils died on a trip and I was forced to carefully drive for a while to get closer to home and to a shop. Other than I cannot think of anything.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 19963.4lsr5
I doubt it’s ethanol. Or my fleet of vehicles would all require them.
Burning oil, running rich. Yep.
Driving with a flashing check engine light. Most defiantly yes.
Antifreeze. Not really or mine once again would be shot and at 299,890 miles it’s doing fine and sets the cat readiness monitor on my first drive cycle test.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Well, I know newer cars are "supposedly" designed to handle ethanol. But for cars from the 90s I think they "claim" they can, but it still does harm.
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09-10-2023, 11:09 AM
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#24
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Georgia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gamefreakgc
Don't complain too much, premium is $5.50 here where I live and I have to run it. I know you don't pay that much for premium in Georgia!
I hope your grandpa is getting the best care that he can as that's a tough diagnosis. I don't know if it's possible or not but try and spend as much quality time with him as you can. Lots of great stories and life advice can be gained from those that have lived long lives before us.
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Premium is around... $4.00 to $4.30 depending on where you go. I just get non-ethanol now which is around the same price, but Non-Ethanol has value, in my mind where as premium does not. (Unless you actually need it for high compression)
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