03-04-2024, 04:39 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Jan 2023
Location: Portland, OR
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Location: Portland, OR
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Anyone run a Singer Alternator?
Is anyone running an alternator from singer?
I've been debating the cs144 swap, but throughout multiple threads I hear of people going through multiple cs144s to get one that doesn't fail on them. Just doesn't leave me with a sense of confidence.
I've seen Singer's alternators can put out 150A at idle. Is anyone running one and has anyone seen actual output numbers at idle?
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03-10-2024, 11:30 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
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Join Date: May 2015
Location: north east of Fairbank out there in the frontiers Alaska
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Real Name: 3 Bears
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unless your running winches and tons of lights and big thumping music, why do you need 150 at idle, and what does it crank out at say 2000 rpm. seems like you will be doing a big three at least to handle that. And depending on the year you are, , for example, the 99+ were only set up with a system to handle 125 max and had a 125 fuse. Someone told me earlier ones were lowere..dont know if that part is ture
i did the cs144 and had no issues, I think some has to depend on if your throwing in a used one or the cheapest reman or chinese new.
But that only lasted me a year, cause I totaled the car, but had no issues.
Im not running a winch now, and only LED light bars etc ( we call them moose lights here) and a stock alternator does ok, but I do have everything on hand to do the denso 105 amp upgrade and the big 3. The nice thing about the denso 105 amp, dont have to do the big 3, runs all stock wires if wanted, plug and play, uses stock belts...and its Denso
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2000 SR-5 Highlander version 4:30's, factory locker , green, bought 6/21
2001 SR-5... bought 11/20..sold 6/21....
2000 SR-5 moded, lifted, e locker, other cool stuff, totaled 10/20
Last edited by 3bears; 03-10-2024 at 11:35 PM.
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03-11-2024, 04:48 PM
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#5
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Jan 2023
Location: Portland, OR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3bears
unless your running winches and tons of lights and big thumping music, why do you need 150 at idle, and what does it crank out at say 2000 rpm. seems like you will be doing a big three at least to handle that. And depending on the year you are, , for example, the 99+ were only set up with a system to handle 125 max and had a 125 fuse. Someone told me earlier ones were lowere..dont know if that part is ture
i did the cs144 and had no issues, I think some has to depend on if your throwing in a used one or the cheapest reman or chinese new.
But that only lasted me a year, cause I totaled the car, but had no issues.
Im not running a winch now, and only LED light bars etc ( we call them moose lights here) and a stock alternator does ok, but I do have everything on hand to do the denso 105 amp upgrade and the big 3. The nice thing about the denso 105 amp, dont have to do the big 3, runs all stock wires if wanted, plug and play, uses stock belts...and its Denso
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I'm running a warn evo 10, led lighting, and will also be charging an aux battery off alternator. Charging the aux would be pulling 35A alone.
What is the 105A alt? Not sure I've heard of it, usually all I see is cs144 upgrades.
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03-11-2024, 06:11 PM
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#7
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Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Pasadena, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brillo_76
The higher amp alts were the later model 1999 to 2002. The 1996 to 1998 were 90 amp alts believe.. As the electrical wiring diagrams go from 100 amp (1996 to 1998) to 120amp (1999 to 2002). So mostly the later alts probably maxed out at 105 or 110 amp so not to get too close to the circuit max amperage.
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Stock alternators were either 70A or 80A, depending on options and year. The 105A alternator is a near-direct fit from a Suzuki Grand Vitara. The large ALT fuse (100A or 120A, depending on year) is there to protect the WIRING, not the alternator, so it is oversized from what you might otherwise expect.
There are a few ways of doing a high-idle, if that's what you want for winching or other purposes - both mechanically or electrically. You do have to have a way of turning that off most of the time, or the ECU can/will throw check-engine lights for various things.
-Charlie
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03-11-2024, 06:37 PM
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#8
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![brillo_76's Avatar](https://www.toyota-4runner.org/customavatars/avatar164664_2.gif) |
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phattyduck
Stock alternators were either 70A or 80A, depending on options and year. The 105A alternator is a near-direct fit from a Suzuki Grand Vitara. The large ALT fuse (100A or 120A, depending on year) is there to protect the WIRING, not the alternator, so it is oversized from what you might otherwise expect.
There are a few ways of doing a high-idle, if that's what you want for winching or other purposes - both mechanically or electrically. You do have to have a way of turning that off most of the time, or the ECU can/will throw check-engine lights for various things.
-Charlie
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Ah.. So the 105 amp is off Suzuki.. Interesting.
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7 3rd gens listed in the build thread (2 are parts mobiles)
Build Thread: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...os-builds.html
Brillo's Bucket Fluid Ex changer: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...ml#post3358086
Sparks Plugs Wire and Coil Information: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...on-5vz-fe.html
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03-11-2024, 09:01 PM
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#10
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![gamefreakgc's Avatar](https://www.toyota-4runner.org/customavatars/avatar115347_1.gif) |
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brillo_76
The higher amp alts were the later model 1999 to 2002. The 1996 to 1998 were 90 amp alts believe.. As the electrical wiring diagrams go from 100 amp (1996 to 1998) to 120amp (1999 to 2002). So mostly the later alts probably maxed out at 105 or 110 amp so not to get too close to the circuit max amperage.
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When adding the big 3 wiring upgrade, a second output wire is added to the system so the power is split between two. Obviously, the second wire has to be fused as well but that way if you happen to have the stereo, lights, winch and everything else going it will not blow. If it blows, the car doesn't run so must be protected against. That's how mine is setup.
The CS-144 with the adapter and a couple of washers is 100% bolt in. Super easy once you figure out how to wiggle it in there haha! It's also the most cost effective and puts out solid amps at idle, much more than the stock alternator. I did it to install an electric fan and it handled it great. Stick with the AC DELCO OEM parts and you will avoid most of the headache with alternators that do not work. The same happens with ours, people buy some cheap parts store alt and it dies 6 months later. Same thing applies to the CS-144.
Last edited by gamefreakgc; 03-11-2024 at 09:04 PM.
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03-12-2024, 10:22 AM
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#11
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![brillo_76's Avatar](https://www.toyota-4runner.org/customavatars/avatar164664_2.gif) |
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Join Date: May 2017
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Elite Member
Join Date: May 2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gamefreakgc
When adding the big 3 wiring upgrade, a second output wire is added to the system so the power is split between two. Obviously, the second wire has to be fused as well but that way if you happen to have the stereo, lights, winch and everything else going it will not blow. If it blows, the car doesn't run so must be protected against. That's how mine is setup.
The CS-144 with the adapter and a couple of washers is 100% bolt in. Super easy once you figure out how to wiggle it in there haha! It's also the most cost effective and puts out solid amps at idle, much more than the stock alternator. I did it to install an electric fan and it handled it great. Stick with the AC DELCO OEM parts and you will avoid most of the headache with alternators that do not work. The same happens with ours, people buy some cheap parts store alt and it dies 6 months later. Same thing applies to the CS-144.
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Thanks for the feedback.. :-) At least the OP has some options and thoughts now.
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7 3rd gens listed in the build thread (2 are parts mobiles)
Build Thread: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...os-builds.html
Brillo's Bucket Fluid Ex changer: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...ml#post3358086
Sparks Plugs Wire and Coil Information: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...on-5vz-fe.html
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03-12-2024, 11:53 AM
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#12
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Senior Member
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Join Date: May 2015
Location: north east of Fairbank out there in the frontiers Alaska
Posts: 3,179
Real Name: 3 Bears
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2015
Location: north east of Fairbank out there in the frontiers Alaska
Posts: 3,179
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although on a taco, same engine and alternator as a 4runner, this was on the taco website, and several have done this on their 4runners and I will be soon
1st gen 105 amp bolt in alternator. | Tacoma World
and the funny thing....when I got the alternator from rock auto, it was cheaper than the 90 amp for a 4runner
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2000 SR-5 Highlander version 4:30's, factory locker , green, bought 6/21
2001 SR-5... bought 11/20..sold 6/21....
2000 SR-5 moded, lifted, e locker, other cool stuff, totaled 10/20
Last edited by 3bears; 03-12-2024 at 11:56 AM.
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