[brillo_76]

Originally Posted by Previologist

not sure why this wouldn't attach to the post above...

I would replace the flywheel with a resurface used one. Or a Lux as the oem flywheel is extremely costly. I believe Lux was one of the OEM supplier. However not 100% on that. :-)

[Previologist]

Originally Posted by brillo_76

I would replace the flywheel with a resurface used one. Or a Lux as the oem flywheel is extremely costly. I believe Lux was one of the OEM supplier. However not 100% on that. :-)

Mine was resurfaced and looks beautiful

[JohnMc]

How does the transmission input shaft look? I've seen some with wear on them where they touch the pilot bearing.

[brillo_76]

Originally Posted by Previologist

Mine was resurfaced and looks beautiful

Yes that looks great...Good call.. Mine was blued and needs replaced...:-(

[Previologist]

I think it looks decent to good considering the miles. It certainly isn't "chewed up"

At some angles it looks like there is more wear than I think there is, due to lighting, and it disappears at other angles. My fingernail doesn't feel much but I do think there is some minor wear. But that's my uneducated opinion

[JohnMc]

Looks good, nothing to worry about here at all.

[phattyduck]

Clean that up really well and check it out. Its probably fine. You want the splines clean of build-up before putting on a very thin film of grease too.

The area of most concern is not there at the pilot bearing, but back on the snout that the throw-out bearing rides on.

Make sure you use an OEM TOB if that hasn't been mentioned in the thread before...

-Charlie

[brillo_76]

I agree with the others clean it up and that is good to go.. :-)

[Previologist]

Sounds good, thanks all. I haven't cleaned it yet because I want to do it outside and the weather has been too miserable for most of the last couple weeks. Tomorrow is looking like the day. I also need to get it moved back a couple inches on the tranny jack.

Originally Posted by phattyduck

hrow-out bearing rides on.

Make sure you use an OEM TOB if that hasn't been mentioned in the thread before...

-Charlie

I missed that on first read but yes, its a made-in-Japan NSK bearing in the Aisin CKT-40 clutch kit.

[Previologist]

That transfer case shifter seal is a B***** to find. Toyota doesn't seem to list it, they only list the sub-assembly which makes no sense to me because they list the tranny seat separately. Marlin has em but it costs at least 11 bucks to ship the little bastard that costs 12 bucks, and I aint paying 23 bucks for a little piece of rubber.

Oreilly's has this power steering pump shaft seal (whatever TF that is) but the fine print also says
[URL="https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/precision/precision-oil-seal/ope0/221510"]

Application for Your Vehicle
Transfer Case Shift Shaft Seal: Aisin RF1A, VF1A


so I ordered one for $3.69. Hope it works.

BTW, just like in Timmy's clutch video my original transfer case shifter seat was nowhere to be found. It either disintegrated completely, which seems odd because my tranny seat was fully present, or they never installed one. The only thing there was the rubber washer.

[TucsonMike]

Good job on the work. I have 318k on my clutch and expect to be replacing it in the near future as well.

Question: Curious to know what tool U used to replace the rear main seal?

Thanks and good luck

MikeM

[Previologist]

Originally Posted by TucsonMike

Good job on the work. I have 318k on my clutch and expect to be replacing it in the near future as well.

Question: Curious to know what tool U used to replace the rear main seal?

Thanks and good luck

MikeM

Damn I though 310K was a record. Tip of the hat to you for getting even more.

I used the $7.99 seal removal tool from Harbor Freight, which I surprisingly had laying around for some reason. I tapped the new one in with a wooden dowel and finished it with taps from the rounded tip of a 3/8 socket extension (1/4 might be better). i was dreading the rear main and was hoping to avoid doing it, but it was actually a piece of cake (fingers crossed that I did well).

[Previologist]

So now I have the release bearing and fork properly and lightly greased and in place, but something doesn't seem quite right. It seems to work as it should, and I know the fork is on properly, but that clip on the bearing worries me. Gotta do more fiddling until I'm 100% certain. May have to post a video later if it doesn't start reassuring me.

[Previologist]

Here is the question I'm encountering. When the fork is in hand, its easy to bring the retainer clip all the way onto it, like this:


In the picture above, the end of the clip is almost flush with the tines of the fork.


However, as seen in side view above, then the wings of the TOB don't ride on the rocker surface of the tine. So that must be wrong (right?).

When the clip overhangs the ends of the tines a bit, as below...


...the clip looks awkward but the tines and wings line up properly. This seems to me to be the right way, but when I move the release bearing back and forth when installed in this position the clip wants to work its way off. However I might be moving it farther than it actually moves when pressing the clutch, so maybe I worry about nothing. But I'd rather worry now and get it right than have to do it again!

(well my picture insertion within the text didn't work but they are in proper order so you can figure it out)

[Previologist]

Here's the way it looks installed, the way I think it should be, with the clip overhanging the tines as in the 3rd photo above