11-08-2012, 05:45 PM
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#91
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Quote:
Originally Posted by antighboatye
Does anyone have the specs somewhere for the positioning of the ABS and retainers rings? I'm aware they shouldn't be bottomed out, but I didn't see anywhere that said where they should be, other than "measure where they are before you take the old ones off". This method isn't very reassuring.
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On pg SA-84 of the '99 FSM it shows the ABS ring pressed on so the inboard edge of the ABS ring is 122.2 +/- 1.0mm from the outboard face of the axle flange. By outboard edge of the flange, I mean the surface where the brake drum mates.
According to some posts, you'll need to adjust the position of the retainer inboard from the ABS ring to properly mate with the seal.
-RC
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1999 Ltd 4x4
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12-12-2012, 01:20 AM
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#92
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Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Central US
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Thanks to the OP for this write up. It was invaluable when servicing my E-Locker before I swapped it in.
To anyone that wants to attempt the bearing press work themselves I have includes pictures of my own SST. There are various homemade styles out there but I thought I would share mine to possibly give ideas to others. The components that I chose were ones that I had available to me for very cheap so the cost drove my design. The stainless steel ring started out life as something completely different hence the extra holes. The circled holes are the same bolt pattern as the flange and there only 4 that are needed for this application. I chose hex rod because it was available and could be gripped with a wrench to tighten down onto the four M10X1.25 studs on the backing plate. I decided to relieve the tapped holes towards the end because the studs aren’t threaded all of the way down. In the picture you can see that the threads in the tapped holes do not start right away. To the outside of the dashed lines on the ring is the point of contact for the press and the ring. The studs on the end of the shaft are also M10X1.25 so you simply use the nuts that hold the backing plate to the flange as fasteners for the tool also. The overall length isn’t critical I only put a tape measure in the photo for scale. As far as the retainer removal I made an extended reach gear puller. Imagine the one pictured below with MUCH longer shackles. I was told it looked like a War of the Worlds Tripod . Try to use a gear puller that has a sharp point on the bottom like the one pictured. This allows the puller to stay located onto the end of the axle shaft. The axle shaft has a center drill mark for holding purposes during machining.
Untitled by xcmtb83, on Flickr
Untitled by xcmtb83, on Flickr
Untitled by xcmtb83, on Flickr
Untitled by xcmtb83, on Flickr
171107602618_171107602618 by xcmtb83, on Flickr
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01-04-2013, 07:45 PM
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#93
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Marysville, WA
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very nice indeed. good job bro I get to do this tomorrow, with the help of this write up.
Again great job and thank-you.
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01-11-2013, 09:33 PM
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#94
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Location: NorCal
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Thanks, great write up! I will have to do these in the future as I have a slow leak.
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01-15-2013, 01:54 PM
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#95
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Join Date: Jan 2013
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Long time lurker, first time poster.
I'm about to undergo this job on my '96, driver side only. Dealer quoted me $383.50 for the parts (coming straight out of my new suspension fund) and I go to pick them up today. Price seems a bit higher than the OP stated...
In any case, I'm saving oodles of dough by doing this job myself, and of course a huge thanks in advance goes out to BigFishAllDay for doing the best write-ups ever, especially for my mechanically-intrigued but generally-inexperienced self.
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01-17-2013, 04:49 PM
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#96
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part #'s
Just a heads up, part numbers will will not be the same for everyone. I thought I'd save some time by bringing in the part numbers to my local Toyota dealer parts dept. but none of them matched. I know sounds stupid, but true. Maybe just my local yota dealer but doubt it. Just thought I'd share.
Parts were for 98 4runner SR5 3.4 4x4
OOPS, part numbers ok, guy at my local Toyota dealership brain dead.
Last edited by tjschmidt; 01-22-2013 at 10:13 PM.
Reason: wrong info
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01-22-2013, 07:53 PM
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#97
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: South Carolina
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I'm getting ready to replace my seals and bearings in my '97 2wd 4runner. I'm going to buy a press so I can do all the bearing work myself. Can someone post the length of the axle? I am looking at a Northern Tool press and want to make sure it can handle the axle.
Thanks,
Ed P
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01-22-2013, 10:07 PM
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#98
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed P
I'm getting ready to replace my seals and bearings in my '97 2wd 4runner. I'm going to buy a press so I can do all the bearing work myself. Can someone post the length of the axle? I am looking at a Northern Tool press and want to make sure it can handle the axle.
Thanks,
Ed P
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this is the press I used and the SST I made to get the bearing, races, and ABS skid control rotor pressed off. My tape measure its a 10ths tape but you can still see the inch side, and the pics might be sideways if so sorry, dont have time to edit. hope this helps
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01-23-2013, 12:37 PM
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#99
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Thanks, but I was hoping for the length dimension on the axle.
Ed P
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01-23-2013, 02:08 PM
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#100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed P
Thanks, but I was hoping for the length dimension on the axle.
Ed P
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I don't have s hard measurement for the axle itself but I know it was right at about 2'
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01-25-2013, 11:13 AM
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#101
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tjschmidt
I don't have s hard measurement for the axle itself but I know it was right at about 2'
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Thanks,
Ed
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02-06-2013, 02:23 PM
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#102
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Location: San Antonio TX
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Why do you need to remove the ABS gear? Cant you press the axle off with it and just set it all aside, then press it back in the new bearing? Im not understanding why its in the way?
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-2014 Barcelona Red 4WD SR5 with leather, Front Adj Bilstein shocks with stock coilovers set at 2.5", Rear Bilstein shocks with Toytec 2.0" Superflex coils, 285/70 17 Cooper ATP on MB Wheels 352 (17x9), and rear headrest DVD entertainment (wifey's DD)
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02-07-2013, 11:43 AM
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#103
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OrangeTexan
Why do you need to remove the ABS gear? Cant you press the axle off with it and just set it all aside, then press it back in the new bearing? Im not understanding why its in the way?
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So you can access the clip that secures the bearing and retainer. The bearing can't be pressed off until the clip is removed.
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02-07-2013, 12:59 PM
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#104
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Ahh i see it now. Im looking at the FSM (pg SA-80). I was thinking you could remove the wheel flange from the axle but it looks to be a permanent part of the axle. Thanks. I'll need to look at my axle this weekend. Seems my driver's side is blown again. The previous owner just replaced the inner seal and bearing not but 3000 miles ago. Although i noticed he used a seal from Rockauto. I also have the breather mod but i need to make sure its not clogged.
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-2014 Barcelona Red 4WD SR5 with leather, Front Adj Bilstein shocks with stock coilovers set at 2.5", Rear Bilstein shocks with Toytec 2.0" Superflex coils, 285/70 17 Cooper ATP on MB Wheels 352 (17x9), and rear headrest DVD entertainment (wifey's DD)
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02-07-2013, 01:43 PM
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#105
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FWIW, I replaced both inner seals & outer seals 6 months ago. I used Toyota inner seals & rockauto outers (along with brake shoes). Everything looked & felt good so I did not bother going the distance with bearings, ABS rings, etc. Figured I'd cross that bridge when it was time.
This writeup is fantastic.
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