I was replacing ball joints at the same time as installing my lift. I've heard some of you guys say to undo the 4 bolts on the lower ball joint so the lower control arm can droop more. Since I was replacing mine I was trying to do it all at once.

So after unbolting the lower ball joint and still having to fight the bolt in I went to jack up on the lower control arm to lift it up to the hub assembly to bolt up the ball joint.

Instead of the lower control arm going up the whole truck went up, lol. Right off the jack stands on that side. I ended up using the jack trick on top of the uppers to push it down so I could bolt up the ball joints.

My question is, is this normal for the new coilover to not compress at all? I would think it should give a little before lifting the truck.

Thanks

First. Loosen the nut on the long bolt going thru the upper control arms so they can droop. Re-torque them once you have the vehicle back on the ground. This will take the stress out of the upper bushings.

Next. Measure (from the hub center to the wheel well) when the vehicle is jacked up, tire hanging. Not lower the vehicle and drive it around the block. Re-measure. You should have ~2"-3" of compression. If not then the springs are adjusted too high.

Thanks for the response Gerdo. I even though I got everything bolted up I may still loosen the upper arm bolts.

I was just concerned about the coilovers not compressing but that could have been because at the lower arm there isn't as much leverage as further out at the wheel.

I have to wait to go to the dealer tomorrow to get a new tie rod castle nut since I beat one of mine up trying to hammer it out since the puller I bought would not quite fit. Ended up getting one from O'reilly's that had thinner arms and it fit. Pulled the tie rod off no problem. Amazing what having the right tools does for you.

This will also ease the removal/installation of CVs.

They torqued at the factory ride height.

Good to know since that might be next with these 15 year old boots...

At full droop before lowering the truck from the center of the hub to the fender measured 25.5". I dropped it and the springs compressed a whole .5" to 25. Not as much as I thought they would...

I had to wait a day before test driving. Installed the diff drop and charged my battery after killing it leaving the key in at the ON position so I could turn the wheel while doing the tie rods and ball joints.

The next day I go out and before driving it I measure again and now it's at 24.5". Took it out for a drive for about a mile or two including one street that has about 5 dips that I took without much braking at about 15-20. It felt great!

Got back home and measured again and ... it grew, back up to 25!

From my stock measurements before the lift I've gained 4-4.5" of lift in the front. I did not adjust the coilovers, this is how they came. They are at about thread 25-26 if that means anything. I think I've heard others say they were at 30.

So I guess I need to adjust them down but how much? I suppose it's going to settle more right?

Here's some pics.

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Wow I have the Ultimate coilovers too and they were set nowhere near that high out of the box. After installation, 3 months and approx. 1000 miles of driving they settled to a little more than 2.5'' of lift with no adjustments. Over the three months, the coils settled about 1/2''

Yeah, I would lower the front a little, if I were you. 3'' of lift is max I would feel comfortable running, considering the high CV angles and other stuff.

Ive got 1" of thread spare on mine, that's what was recommended by Toytec and 24" from hub center to bottom of LTD fenders. The front won't settle as much as the rear. If you like a level ride or even a little rake then you're probaly going to want 1.5-2" coil spacers in the rear. Mine settled out in a week or so. Let it settle, make adjustments and get an alignment ASAP.

Thanks for the responses guys. To Jon, I have OME 890's with a 10 mm spacer on it now! That's how high the front is! LOL I don't know what the difference is with my truck. Maybe I got the only "special" 3rd gen with an alluminum block so my front end is lighter...?

I guess I should adjust them down about 1/2" on the coilover and see what that does.

It looks like we set those too high. I would adjust them to about 1.25 inches of thread showing below the locking nut. That should be about 3 inches of lift.

Thanks for jumping in Steeze. I originally never wanted 3" in the front. I want rake so I first adjusted them down to 1 1/8" of thread left below the bottom nut and I still had about 4" of lift.

I adjusted them down again to .75" and now I have 3" of lift. Tomorrow I'll take them down to .5" and leave them there. The cv's look much better, still rides great, even softer.

Thanks again for the help guys!

P.S. Gerdo, I did break the uppers loose and retorque. Heard them pop and twist in there so I agree it's the right way to go.

sorry not trying to hijack this thread but jon is that 24" hub to ltd flare with no body lift?
thanks
john

Finished with adjusting the height last week. I only left 5/8th's of an inch of thread showing beneath the bottom lock nut. Still got 2-2.5" of lift. Got the alignment and new tires put on today.

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looks great!!

Looks great man....reminds me of what mine looked like when I first bought it!