That sweet smell of burnt brakes

Sungod

New member
Noticed a little wobble the other day when slowing down, but didn't think much of it. This morning could tell that then I let off the gas that it seemed like it was dragging. The wobble got so bad at 40 that it the steering wheel rocked like I was on a dirt road. That was followed by the pleasant smell of burnt brakes. I pull over and do a quick temp check of the wheels and 3 of them were ice cold which worried me until I got to the left front. It was red hot.

Nothing better on a cold and rainy day than replacing brakes. Time to dig up my receipt for the calipers and head out and get new pads, rotors, calipers and pins. I also love the chance to get raped by the dealer because I don't have time to order the pads and pins.

I guess I can't complain, I have 60k on these calipers.
 
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Noticed a little wobble the other day when slowing down, but didn't think much of it. This morning could tell that then I let off the gas that it seemed like it was dragging. The wobble got so bad at 40 that it the steering wheel rocked like I was on a dirt road. That was followed by the pleasant smell of burnt brakes. I pull over and do a quick temp check of the wheels and 3 of them were ice cold which worried me until I got to the left front. It was red hot.

Nothing better on a cold and rainy day than replacing brakes. Time to dig up my receipt for the calipers and head out and get new pads, rotors, calipers and pins. I also love the chance to get raped by the dealer because I don't have time to order the pads and pins.

I guess I can't complain, I have 60k on these calipers.

So were you able to see what failed?
 
So were you able to see what failed?

My pads were relatively new as was the hardware. I think I changed them about 10K ago. It looked like the inboard piston was stuck. It really wasn't as bad as it could have been since I only dove about a mile with it burning. I had to beat the caliper off the rotor. I knew I should have replaced the calipers when I did the pads last time. It would have saved me $150 in rotors and new pads.
 
Could you have re-used the pads and rotors?

I had a similar situation (new-ish pads and rotors, seized caliper) and re-used everything but the caliper and hardware. I hit the pads with some sandpaper to remove any glaze and everything seems to be working ok now. No pulsing, good stopping power.

I'm just curious as to when you should go with new pads and rotors vs. re-using the old stuff.
 
Typically if you scorch a pad/rotor combo to the point really being able to smell the burning of the friction material, or even see smoke, then odds are good that the pads on that particular wheel are junk, and the rotor is probably glazed over something fierce. Best case, if you wanted to re use the rotor you'd have to get it turned down to fresh metal and remove any possible heat warp. So now you have a slightly thinner rotor on one wheel of your truck which isn't really ideal. You could re-use parts, but I'd personally rather not end up with oddball service intervals for individual wheels. I.e. having to replace the pads and rotor at one wheel at one point, and then have to do the other 3 a couple years later. Never a bad idea to stay on the safe side when it comes to something as important as brakes.
 
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As Ed says you can, and in my younger days I have. Replacing the parts was more for my peace of mind more than anything. Clealy I didn't need to replace anything on the drivers side, but just to keep everything the same schedule, I did. My pads had noticable uneven wear and more so on the inboard side which meant they would go metal to metal before I would even get close to the sensor. Also my passenger side rotor was warped from the heat so I would have needed to get it turned which would have ran about $25. A new rotor was only $52 and I had a 20% off coupon from Advance which made the decision even easier.

My advice with brakes is to not cut corners.

On a side note, I now know why I had a hard time getting the last driver side caliper brake line to seat. I had a WL casting when I should have had the WG.
 
Not that this is empirical data from a laboratory, conducted under the scientific method... but:

I installed the brakes on my old Supra; I had many times cooked the brakes to the point of boiling the fluid and billowing smoke out the wheel wells, at the track. We bagged those brakes so bad, the front rotors were completely trashed with radially aligned thermal cracks all the way around them. The front pads were cracked pretty bad. But even though physically the parts were pretty rough, they worked flawless. Sitting in the driver's seat, there was no pulsation, no pull, the pedal was reliable and firm (once the boiled fluid was replaced of course), and provided good feedback.

My '05 Limited has brakes installed at Toyota, with all Toyota parts, etc. I had the wheels off a few weeks ago and all the parts look like hell. The rotors are completely bagged and all 4 are ghosted repeatedly. And it drives like it too. Pulsation under braking, that sort of thing.

The difference is the bedding of the brakes. When I bed brakes, I do it Stoptech style... cook them slowly and gradually, then cook them REAL good. Mechanics seem to think that they go out and do 2 or 3 hard stops and they're good... but that will actually **** up all the rotors real nicely, doing that. If you come to a complete stop at all before the brake pads are properly bed in, it'll leave a cute imprint of the pad on the rotor (visible or not), and there's your high spot. Depending on materials and condition, this may machine out, or it may not.

Obviously you don't want to drive around with beat up brakes, but they will get in pretty rough shape if they're not bed properly.

I'm confident to say that the piss-poor bed in procedure that's followed by many mechanics is a 'make-work' operation, to ensure you'll be back in 20000km for new brakes because you can't stand the shudder/pulsation under brake load.

My 3rd Gen had 100000km on the front pads with plenty of meat left, 210000km on the rotors and still in spec, still true, and drove as expected.

Point I'm trying to hammer home is if you're going to put good parts on it, bed it properly:

Stock Brake System Bed-in

You only get one chance to bed them properly or you're stuck with what you have. The purpose of a brake pad is to be rammed against a cast iron plate spinning at high speed and produce heat as a result. If you can cook the brakes once and they never work properly again, then those pads were crap or proper bed-in wasn't performed, or both. Regardless, the point of a pad is to create heat, the point of a rotor is to absorb and dissipate it.
 
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If you can cook the brakes once and they never work properly again, then those pads were crap or proper bed-in wasn't performed, or both.

FWIW, after my last pad/rotor change I bed my pads in using the Stoptech procedure. That may be one of the reasons why I have no pulsating or other issues even though I am re-using pads and rotors that were cooked from driving around with a seized caliper for a bit.

I definitely cooked the pads good too, I had to drive home to NH from Boston with it wobbling the whole way like Sungod described. When I got home, burnt brake smell and the front driver's side wheel was hot.

I probably would have replaced pads and rotors on both sides if I wasn't on a budget though, just for peace of mind.
 
I definitely cooked the pads good too, I had to drive home to NH from Boston with it wobbling the whole way like Sungod described. When I got home, burnt brake smell and the front driver's side wheel was hot.

Wow! That must have been some ride! I still have the burnt brake odor after my short trip. I could only imagine what yours must have been like. The other fall out from mine was that my wheel was coated with black dust and some of my clear coat on the wheel flaked/burnt off.
 
Wow! That must have been some ride! I still have the burnt brake odor after my short trip. I could only imagine what yours must have been like. The other fall out from mine was that my wheel was coated with black dust and some of my clear coat on the wheel flaked/burnt off.

Haha yeah, I had lots of angry Massachusetts folks honk and flip me off as I chugged along at 50 mph on I-93. It got a little bit tricky in the tunnels. I would have thought my wheel was falling of if I hadn't known better.

I also had the coating of brake dust, though the paint on my wheel has been flaking off for quite some time anyways, so no damage there.
 

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