I just replace my radiator at 155k with a denso 1 7/16 (same size as OEM)
the temp needle is a little higher than before and i bled the air out as recommended 2500 rpm for 90 seconds. Does anyone know why the needle
is up?
Thanks

did you replace your thermostat?

no thermostat

Replace the thermostat and check your clutch fan for proper operation. It works essentially the same as a thermostat.

Is it possible before it was running a little cool? Where on the gauge is it? I found the 90 seconds at 2500 didn't quite do the trick for me when I replaced the coolant this summer, so I put a blanket over the radiator and ran it (with the heat on max) with the radiator cap off until it got good and hot and I was no longer getting bubbles from inside the system. I made sure to run it until I could hear the fan roaring for quite a while to make sure everything was open, but it helped that I had the blanket over the grille and it was nearly 100*f that day.

when i replaced my radiator i just replaced it, refilled, and ran it up to temp normally. hasn't been any different than it was before temp wise, and hasn't varied at all

You didn't specify which engine you have, the V6 thermostat is easier than the V8 (but if you had your timing belt done at 90~110k then the thermostat should have been recommended/replaced along with the water pump since it has to come off.)

Typically what we do at work is use a tool like this:


We'll fill radiator with coolant (should be Toyota Super Long Life Coolant aka "Toyota Pink" for your vehicle) until it starts filling up into the funnel (I like to stop about halfway.) After the funnel stops burping large bubbles, then fill the funnel half way and start the engine. Make sure the vehicle is set to "Hot" on the HVAC with the lowest blower setting, this is to make sure the heater valve is open to get as much air out of the system as possible (otherwise you could have air still trapped.) Then let the vehicle idle until the thermostat opens, the way you check this is by either grabbing the upper and lower radiator hoses and comparing the temperatures (they should feel the same) and/or using an IR Thermometer to check the temperature (should be around 160~180 ish on the upper hose when its hot, while the lower hose should be about 10~20 degrees cooler.) At this point you can rev the engine a couple times if you want, but you're just making sure that the coolant doesn't bubble through the funnel anymore. When you're done I like to use the block-off tool and then pour the rest of the funnel into the overflow bottle to just a hair above the "FULL" line, this will accommodate for any smaller air pockets that didn't get completely burped out.

The whole process should take about 15-30ish minutes.

Its a V-8, I replaced the thermostat 5 years ago(Toyota) and run amsoil
antifreeze in it. the gauge was about 1/3 before the radiator swap now its
about 1/2. When i did a thermo IR on the top of left tank is about 40 degrees hotter than right side when up to temp. the thermostat housing reads about 120. Did you drill a hole in a radiator cap and make that funnel set up?

Nope no drilling, its a simple tool you can buy anywhere. It comes with multiple adapters that fit many radiators.
http://www.tooltopia.com/lisle-24680...swcaAhJ_8P8HAQ

Also which Amsoil coolant did you use? because as far as I have seen Amsoil does not make a coolant that meets Toyota's SLLC requirements (and I love Amsoil, I run their products in my own vehicle.) You may have expedited the wear on your radiator by using the incorrect coolant for the vehicle.

40* is a bit of a gap... I don't know why it was 1/3 before, but usually 1/2 is about right for the 4Runner (actually pretty much any vehicle, since they're just "go/no go" gauges these days.) My 4Runner is just a hair under 1/2 when fully warmed up.

1/2 way mark is the usual position of the needle on most vehicles.....any other thing..then something isnt quite right..halway corresponds to about 90 deg C or so

just heard back from amsoil, they stated in there email that there antifreeze/
coolant meets all Toyota's requirements. Thanks for the info on the filling tool
(just ordered one) If 1/2 way is the normal setting then I'll just leave it at that.

Can you provide a part number please?

The only coolant I see on their website is:
AMSOIL Antifreeze and Engine Coolant

Which specifically states its compatible with Dexcool (which contradicts Toyota's requirements as Toyota specifically states NOT to use Dexcool in their vehicles) and makes no mention of Toyota or other non-Domestic coolant requirements (usually an indicator that it won't match up as well.) Though their ingredient list seems to match up with Toyota's SLLC for the most part.

I like to keep track of coolants that are good substitutes for SLLC for members if they ask.

If Your an amsoil member as you know you can email or call them, i emailed
them sat and got this response today



Our Antifreeze/Coolant meets all Toyota specifications for engine coolant.



Byron Selbrede

Technical Services

Product Code: ANT1G-EA
AMSOIL Antifreeze and Engine Coolant

I like Amsoil as much as the next guy, but they also will say the same thing about the 229.5 specification for oil in my Mercedes, but the reality is it has not been approved by the manufacturer, so I feel it's best to stick with what is approved. I know green+red can = sludge in 3rd gens, not sure how well other coolants play with the pink stuff, but I'd be leery.

Some guys with MB V8's that require 229.5 oil (there is a HUGE list of approved oils by Mercedes) have used Amsoil in their engines and developed sludge or ticks, as well as less-than-favorable Blackstone reports. Of course just as many have used it with ZERO issues, but sticking with manufacturer approved stuff is always the safest bet IMO. Of course Mercedes are probably 10x more picky about fluids than our Toyotas, but when it comes to coolant and ATF I always stick with OEM supplied stuff only, diffs, oil, t-case, brake fluid, etc., is all fair game though.

The funnel is totally unnecessary unless you have a completely drained block that will suck up more than what your radiator will hold. Your radiator works off gravity and will hold about 10 qts. Even when it gets low, adding more coolant won't draw trapped air because it draws from the bottom and air will rise. If anything, it could make it harder to get air out because it creates a column of liquid high above your radiator.