you could slip a spacer in there to get a little bump, if you could find a spacer to fit the tophat. Its not the same shape as the top of OEM strut.
You also can crank the coil down a little bit beyond 1.5", issues arise when you've cranked it to less than the compressed length of the coil, then when it bottoms, the spring compresses on itself and crushes itself.

But, the correct way to achieve proper ride height is to suspend the vehicle with the proper spring. You need to up up your rate to a 650 or 700# spring. Easy to do, and then you did it right. It'll ride much better than a cranked down over compressed lightweight spring

Yeah, I have no complaints with my 700# coils + V8 and stock front bumper even. Need to measure how much of threads are exposed but I have a full 3" in the front.

Someone smart probably replaced those with taller coils haha.

You should buy icon or king coils in a longer length, like 14". This allows a taller lift with less preload on the spring. Just a thought.

I though about the same thing. To put spacer. The way it came from icon i like the way it rides. Am afriad if i crank it up a bit itll change the way it rides.

It will change the way it rides.

Another thing to consider. The coilover assemblies designed for our trucks have a specific length when fully extended. That length is determined by the optimum travel range of both the suspension linkage, and the operation range of the CV joint. Adding a spacer on TOP of the coilver may likely forces the knuckle droop to be further than what the CV can accommodate. I.e. extreme CV angle when either of the front wheels is nearly unloaded.

Consider the scenario in which you're climbing up uneven terrain. One of your front wheels completely unloads and that CV angle is now way past the normal operating range because of the top spacer you added. ATRAC kicks in, and locks the brake at that same corner, and now your drivetrain is transmitting intermittent torque through a CV who's angle is very close to, or maxed out. Bye bye CV joint.

You're much more likely to over-stress the CV by turning sharply than you are by any reasonable amount of suspension droop. The front wheels have a maximum turning angle of around 30 degrees. To get that much of a CV angle with suspension droop would require a droop of about 7-8 inches from horizontal at the wheel. A 1" spacer isn't going to get you to that point. You'd have to do a roughly 4" spacer-only lift to get those kind of angles.

It's also worth noting that preload does not change the stiffness of a spring. Stiffness is set by spring materials and construction. Consequently preload, whether done by raising the spring perch on the shock, or by inserting a spacer at the top of the shock, does not change the ride at all unless you shift the ride height so much that you are hitting the bump stops or exceeding the shock travel. As long as the preload does not exceed the vehicle weight (which case would prevent the suspension from getting off the lower stop), the spring operating point does not change, regardless of preload. It is still the same stiffness spring, and it is still supporting exactly the same amount of weight, therefore its loaded length will be exactly the same as it was before the preload change.

Preload does bias the suspension operating point away from center. Where spacers and other lift options cause trouble is when the suspension nominal operating point is biased too far from its center value, causing the suspension to frequently hit the stops on one end or the other, or causing the spring to go into coil bind before the stops are reached. As long as neither of those situations occur, the ride should be indistinguishable from the non-preloaded case.

so how are the people on this forum reaching heights of 39 inches without complaining about cv angles and also vibration from having the cv at weird angles?

By that reasoning, wouldn't a 3" coilover lift with a 1" spacer on top of it get you damn close to it?

What about an over max suspension droop PLUS turning the wheels?