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Old 02-22-2020, 07:33 PM #1
stanleyoutdoors stanleyoutdoors is offline
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Need to take steering rack ALLl the way out to swap bushings??

2006 4Runner, V6, RWD (NOT 4WD), Sport Edition

My rack bushings are shot (just bought the truck with 117,000 miles). It darts from side to side when there are any pavement irregularities, especially "truck ruts." I saw a lot of play in them while someone turned the steering wheel back and forth.

But the rest of the rack seems fine- no leaks, no obvious tie rods problems.

I found some bushings on Ebay (couldn't find them anywhere else) and I plan to replace the bushings. I would rather not pull off the tie rod ends and I would REALLY rather not break off the fluid lines for fear of creating a leak.

Can I swap the bushings without pulling the rack ALL the way out?

Thanks!

FOLLOWUP:

I got the rack out without too much trouble. The driver side bolt with the V6 hits the AC compressor, so I jacked up the engine to raise it barely high enough to work it out. Better way would be to grind off the little bit of bolt sticking out thru the nut before removing nut.

I ordered some black bushings off Ebay and they looked NOTHING like the stockers. Fortunately the seller agreed to a refund even though the listing said no refunds.

My bigger problem was getting the old bushing out. It's really hard to get under a little piece of metal and grab them. I tried a pickle fork and just mangled one of the bushings and threw in the towel.

I live south of Denver so I called CVJ axles in North Denver. They said they could install their bushings for $125, so I dropped them off, got a beer at one of Denver's 400 (really, 400) breweries and went back. Their bushings look exactly like the OEM, even the oval hole. The mechanic said he pries back the metal part with a sharpened chisel them rams in a pickle fork mounted to an air hammer. Well worth the cash.

I then got new tires and an alignment. The wandering is 95% solved. I probably should have swapped out the tie rods while I was at it. I may swap one at a time. The toe is currently correct and the steering wheel is straight when driving straight (the proper term for this is "clear vision"), so I can theoretically, swap the tie rod on one side and adjust it until I get clear vision again, then repeat with the other side. But I'll probably wait a bit as other projects beckon.

Thanks to all who replied!

Last edited by stanleyoutdoors; 03-10-2020 at 02:05 AM. Reason: follow up
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Old 02-22-2020, 11:41 PM #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stanleyoutdoors View Post
2006 4Runner, V6, RWD (NOT 4WD), Sport Edition

My rack bushings are shot (just bought the truck with 117,000 miles). It darts from side to side when there are any pavement irregularities, especially "truck ruts." I saw a lot of play in them while someone turned the steering wheel back and forth.

But the rest of the rack seems fine- no leaks, no obvious tie rods problems.

I found some bushings on Ebay (couldn't find them anywhere else) and I plan to replace the bushings. I would rather not pull off the tie rod ends and I would REALLY rather not break off the fluid lines for fear of creating a leak.

Can I swap the bushings without pulling the rack ALL the way out?

Thanks!
You can but you're going to be working at it quite a bit longer than just pulling the whole rack out. Really not a big deal to take the fluid lines off. Probably good to drain the system and put fresh fluid in anyway. Did you get the blue ones off ebay? That's what I installed in mine and it made a world of a difference.
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Old 02-23-2020, 10:43 PM #3
stanleyoutdoors stanleyoutdoors is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thegame7 View Post
Did you get the blue ones off ebay? That's what I installed in mine and it made a world of a difference.
I think they are black.

Was it hard to get the old ones out of the rack? Hard to get new ones in?

I plan to try to do it without cracking the lines, but will if I have to.
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Old 02-24-2020, 02:48 AM #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thegame7 View Post
You can but you're going to be working at it quite a bit longer than just pulling the whole rack out. Really not a big deal to take the fluid lines off. Probably good to drain the system and put fresh fluid in anyway. Did you get the blue ones off ebay? That's what I installed in mine and it made a world of a difference.
My old Alberta truck had the high pressure line ceased into the housing of the rack. There was no way to remove it without destroying the hose. If yours came out easy, I'm envious for sure!

I decided to replace the rack with 300000km on it. Several people around the boards here reported leaks around that age and Toyota tends to design things in lifecycles to all wear out at the same time. I figured the bushings had lasted as long as the rack should, so I replaced the whole rack.

And the intermediate steering shaft because that was ceased with rust. And of course, the high pressure line.

Very expensive project.
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Old 02-24-2020, 03:27 PM #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stanleyoutdoors View Post
I think they are black.

Was it hard to get the old ones out of the rack? Hard to get new ones in?

I plan to try to do it without cracking the lines, but will if I have to.
It's going to be nearly impossible to replace the bushings without pulling the rack. There's simply not enough space to work with to get them out. Good time to flush the system and put fresh fluid in. I just replaced my rack last June and it's not terrible. Save yourself the headache and just get a new bolt for the driver side and cut the current one down to get it out easier.
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Old 02-25-2020, 09:39 PM #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stanleyoutdoors View Post
I think they are black.

Was it hard to get the old ones out of the rack? Hard to get new ones in?

I plan to try to do it without cracking the lines, but will if I have to.
I used a pickle fork to get the old ones out. They came out fairly easy after a couple good wacks with the sledge. New ones went in real easy.
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Old 02-25-2020, 09:41 PM #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keros View Post
My old Alberta truck had the high pressure line ceased into the housing of the rack. There was no way to remove it without destroying the hose. If yours came out easy, I'm envious for sure!

I decided to replace the rack with 300000km on it. Several people around the boards here reported leaks around that age and Toyota tends to design things in lifecycles to all wear out at the same time. I figured the bushings had lasted as long as the rack should, so I replaced the whole rack.

And the intermediate steering shaft because that was ceased with rust. And of course, the high pressure line.

Very expensive project.
Good point! I'm used to zero rust California cars If your lines seem to be seized then you may have to replace more than anticipated.
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Old 02-25-2020, 10:32 PM #8
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I thought the ones for our truck have oval bushings?

If not can you post the ones you purchased?

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Old 02-25-2020, 11:26 PM #9
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Originally Posted by who done it View Post
I thought the ones for our truck have oval bushings?

If not can you post the ones you purchased?

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No only the center hole where the bolt goes through is oval. I used these and it tightened the steering up immensely.

Fits Toyota 4Runner Tacoma 2003-2009 Steering Rack Bushing Set Polyurethane | eBay
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Old 02-27-2020, 01:38 AM #10
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Awesome, thank you.

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Old 02-29-2020, 09:05 PM #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thegame7 View Post
I used a pickle fork to get the old ones out. They came out fairly easy after a couple good wacks with the sledge. New ones went in real easy.
So I got the rack out- not terribly hard, but now I can't get the old bushings out. I tried a pickle fork, but it just pulled the inner metal "top hat" out leaving the rubber and (I think) another, outer, piece of metal. I think maybe the trick is to get under that out piece of metal, but I can't seem to get under it.

Any other advice? Thanks
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Old 03-01-2020, 12:40 PM #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stanleyoutdoors View Post
So I got the rack out- not terribly hard, but now I can't get the old bushings out. I tried a pickle fork, but it just pulled the inner metal "top hat" out leaving the rubber and (I think) another, outer, piece of metal. I think maybe the trick is to get under that out piece of metal, but I can't seem to get under it.

Any other advice? Thanks
Just tap it out with a socket that's the same diameter as the outer sleeve.

The hardest part is actually separating the inner sleeve from the outer sleeve. I found that the easiest way is to score the rubber bushing all around with a razor and then twist the inner sleeve out with a large pair of channellocks.
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Old 03-01-2020, 09:11 PM #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stanleyoutdoors View Post
So I got the rack out- not terribly hard, but now I can't get the old bushings out. I tried a pickle fork, but it just pulled the inner metal "top hat" out leaving the rubber and (I think) another, outer, piece of metal. I think maybe the trick is to get under that out piece of metal, but I can't seem to get under it.

Any other advice? Thanks
Screwdriver and a bigger hammer will get under it, then pickle fork.
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Old 03-03-2020, 07:47 PM #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stanleyoutdoors View Post
So I got the rack out- not terribly hard, but now I can't get the old bushings out. I tried a pickle fork, but it just pulled the inner metal "top hat" out leaving the rubber and (I think) another, outer, piece of metal. I think maybe the trick is to get under that out piece of metal, but I can't seem to get under it.

Any other advice? Thanks

Just curious, what was the out come? Were you able to get it back together and did it help?

Thanks in advance.
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Old 03-10-2020, 02:07 AM #15
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FOLLOWUP:

I got the rack out without too much trouble. The driver side bolt with the V6 hits the AC compressor, so I jacked up the engine to raise it barely high enough to work it out. Better way would be to grind off the little bit of bolt sticking out thru the nut before removing nut.

I ordered some black bushings off Ebay and they looked NOTHING like the stockers. Fortunately the seller agreed to a refund even though the listing said no refunds.

My bigger problem was getting the old bushing out. It's really hard to get under a little piece of metal and grab them. I tried a pickle fork and just mangled one of the bushings and threw in the towel.

I live south of Denver so I called CVJ axles in North Denver. They said they could install their bushings for $125, so I dropped them off, got a beer at one of Denver's 400 (really, 400) breweries and went back. Their bushings look exactly like the OEM, even the oval hole. The mechanic said he pries back the metal part with a sharpened chisel them rams in a pickle fork mounted to an air hammer. Well worth the cash.

I then got new tires and an alignment. The wandering is 95% solved. I probably should have swapped out the tie rods while I was at it. I may swap one at a time. The toe is currently correct and the steering wheel is straight when driving straight (the proper term for this is "clear vision"), so I can theoretically, swap the tie rod on one side and adjust it until I get clear vision again, then repeat with the other side. But I'll probably wait a bit as other projects beckon.

Thanks to all who replied!
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