Love their vids! Sometime they make it look too easy. I do the same with watching multiple videos just to make sure someone didn’t leave something important out.

I followed this post about bleeding and had no issues. Note only steps 1-5 are needed for the rear unless the solenoid is involved. That info is run together with the regular steps so it may appear to all be one process but it isn’t.

I also installed SpeedBleeders and found them very helpful.

This works for me everytime. Front brakes: set your catch cup in place and put the hose on the bleeder valve with the hose going straight up. Then crack the bleeder open. Go to the drivers seat with engine off, slowly depress the brake pedal down to the floor and slowly let it rise up til it stops, do this 4-5 times and recheck master fluid level and volume in catch cup. Top off and empty as needed. If you need to empty the cup, close the valve so air does not enter caliper. Repeat again until fluid coming out is clean. Lock down bleeder and remove catch cup. Switch sides.

Rear brakes on 4runner: same as above but instead of pumping pedal, turn key to on and let booster run, turn key off and back on letting the booster cycle again. Check master and catch cup every two cycles. When the fluid is clean, lock down bleeder and move to next wheel.

By running the hose up from the bleeder valve it keeps air away from the bleeder valve opening even if flow reverses. Works like a charm every time. This picture is of my boat trailer brakes. Any air bubbles will naturally rise in the fluid line. Pumping brakes slowly lets the air bubbles escape far enough in the line and not get sucked back it,

*normally a full catch cup is enough to purge the entire brake line.

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