Thanks for clicking/reading. I'm at my wits end lately with this car.

I'm in need of some opinions. I've got a 2007 sr5 4x4 with around 208k miles and a bunch of repairs needed. I'm getting to the point where I'm wondering if another shoe is gonna drop cuz its getting expensive already.

In terms of repairs:
Leaking windshield due to rust (getting a quote Wednesday)
Leaking radiator
Knock sensor and/or harness gone bad
U-joint to rear diff going bad
Clockspring shot (likely from windshield leaking onto steering column)

The knock sensor and windshield are my biggest costs. I wouldn't be surprised to dump 4k when all is said and done. I know the engine and trans are fairly bulletproof but at over 200k miles can it really keep going? The frame is still in ok shape so that would easily last another few years at this point, but what else will break?

You guys have seen and heard it. What are your opinions? Were I to get something else what 4x4 would you consider to replace it?

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Problems aside, how much do you like the truck? How about frame rust? 4WD work?

The repair costs are significant, but depending on your budget and taste, you might be talking the same amount as a few payments on a different vehicle. I see people in a 4R FB group talking about buying new ones for $65K and used 5th Gens are usually $25K and up. I wouldn’t want any part of that even if interest rates weren’t in the double digits.

Properly maintained, both the V8 and V6 engines, and the transmission, will last forever. If anything, I would consider selling the one you have for whatever you can get, and finding another 4th Gen with lower mileage and/or fewer problems.

I drove my '91 V6 Camry until a couple of years ago. Engine, transmission and most of the body was in good shape. The brake lines and fuel line had rusted through and the shop was talking about 'starting' in the $800 range, so I donated it.

That left me with the 2004 T4R and the 1999 Sienna. Neither is for sale and I just put $1900 into the Sienna's struts. I haven't had a car payment since 2009 and I'm happy to put a car payment into either car at least once or twice a year.

When it costs more to repair than the car is worth, I'd strongly consider a trade, but if not, I keep going. So far that has worked well for me. We're happy with our Toyotas. YMMV

You do have choices:

Are you mechanically inclined? Do you have tools? Is it a V6 or V8? Most of those issues can be done fairly easily.

Knock sensor V8- intake plenum has to come off, not a bad job, little over an hour, 4.0 in same location about the same time.

U joint - if you have basic tools take off the driveshaft, get a u-joint yourself, take it to machine shop or your favorite mechanic and have it changed. Reinstall. I would do both because if 1 is gone, the other is not far behind. You will save a good chunk of money doing it this way.

Radiator - very easy to change yourself. Look at rock auto and amazon, try to stay with bigger brands like spectra premium, Valero etc.. I would change the upper and lower hoses while the rad is out ( maybe water pump too if it's in the budget )

Clockspring - another very easy job. Steering wheel comes off with 2 torx screws holding the airbag and then 1 center nut. Wheel pops right off, the clockspring is under it. There is a clip holding the c- spring in. You may need a tool to remove it. KD Tools makes one, it's about 12-15.00. I would use OEM clock spring, no programming needed. It also may just need the connections cleaned. There may be just some green crusties on the terminals.

Windshield - do you have insurance? Youre right, this will be the costliest part. Ins. will take care of the WS, but not the rust. Get multiple estimates. All it should need is the rusted sections cut out and replaced. See if the shop will "blend" the paint on the roof, it will save on the paint cost and removal of the roof rack.

If no to the first questions, then you would still be spending less to fix these items than buying a newer vehicle. Interest rates are stupid high, car prices still have not fallen back to their old rates, now that the UAW has started the strike the prices will probably go up again. Even though it's going to create a shortage on new cars, as we saw before it will trickle down to the used car market.

This is good advice. If you like the 4Runner you have, follow this advice and you'll spend less than you think.

I have some tools but to do the knock sensor I'd probably have to buy some additional ones. I have the v6 and from what I've seen the knock sensor job requires removal of upper and lower intakes. I can swing a brake job or oil change, but I'm not too confident in getting it done in a day. But I suppose a couple hundred in tools is still cheaper than 2k+ in labor.

IIRC on the 4.0 you only need to remove the plenum. The sensor is right in the middle of #3 and number #4 intake ports. I think all you need for tools are a mini screwdriver, ratchet and extensions, 10mm, 12mm and 14mm sockets. There may be some addl misc tools needed as I have not pulled a V6 plenum off in a few years.

Harbor Freight has decent tools at a bargain price; very reasonable. I have bought some specialty tools for jobs and never used them again. I just consider it the price of DIY, which, if you can do it, is better than paying someone. Yes, there are some repairs that I had to pay someone anyway, but over the years I've saved a lot of money. With YouTube videos you have plenty of support.

I'd like to see a picture of the rust area around the windshield. I don't recall hearing anyone have this issue. Just having a windshield replaced is actually pretty cheap unless these cars happen to cost more for some odd reason. None of the repairs on your list aside from rust should be too expensive unless you use a dealer.

I used to write alot of appraisals on windshield rust or rot around the windshields from poor windshield installations. The installers either got too close to the painted area above the windshield and chipped the paint off or didn't prepare the windshield channel correctly and caused rust under the glass and when the rust got worse it pushed the urethane up letting water in the untreated areas of the roof.