I agree with Piggity, my bet is that wheel speed sensor. When it fails hard you get the lights. Mine was also intermittent through a whole winter.

I have a 2008 Limited 2WD and had the exact same issue. I replaced my gas cap with OEM and that fixed it permanently. If you scan tool, you see codes related to EVAP.

Not sure if you’re on the right thread here, info for codes was already noted and the gas cap has already been replaced.

When the gas cap seal is bad you will also have the "Check Engine" light on as well.

Since the Check Engine light is not mentioned being on then it can't the gas cap.

my money is on the wheel speed sensor, either its failing or got some dirt/crud on it...hopefully it resolves over time, or you take it out and clean it properly


@zguy1 could you confirm the type of obd bt scanner you are using or the amazon link. i had a bafx scanner that also worked great could read abs/sr5 and tranny temps, but its out of stock on amazon now.

I got this one.

Veepeak OBDCheck BLE Bluetooth... Amazon.com

You will need the OBD Fusion App plus the Toyota enhanced plugin.

My intermittent issue is becoming more frequent. I was going to try and swap the sensors today but it looks like only front left and right left are the same part number. In other words, it appears that you can swap sensors from front to back but not side to side.

I'm pretty sure I had the front speed sensor out for a bearing replacement but I never touched the back though. Hopefully rust is not factor during removal. I'm a bit optimistic as I have not had overly rusted parts prevent from disassembly thus far.


Just to confirm, the point of swapping the sensors would be to eliminate possible wiring issues?

Right, 2 match but I couldn't remember if they were the same on the each side or opposite corners.

Swap it to see if the counter gets better on the suspect wheel, if it moves it's the sensor. That would prove out the wiring too. Hopefully they come out easily.

I did not get a chance to check it today but will do so on Thursday. I went ahead and ordered an aftermarket sensor from Amazon just in case. It was around $15.

I know the suspected sensor should come out as I replaced the FR wheel bearing about 2 years ago. I can't imagine replacing the wheel bearing had anything to do with my possible sensor woes now.

I'm in the garage trying to install the new (non OEM) sensor from Amazon. Figured I would just install this straight away as opposed to swapping with the rear.

The original sensor came out very easy as I had it out when I did the wheel bearing a few years ago. The surface under the sensor was a bit rusty but nothing that would raise the sensor. I sanded the area smooth.

I having a problem getting the aftermarket sensor to snap in the knuckle. The old one goes in easily. I put a small amount of grease on the o-ring but still no luck. I even swapped the o-ring from the original but no difference. I can tighten down the screw holding the new sensor in but it is not sitting flush.

Thoughts? Is this typical or is this what you get for being an aftermarket part?

Update: I was able to get the new sensor to sit flush. I sprayed some lithium grease on the o-ring and was able to get it sit flush.

However, it seems like the issue is still there. I have not driven it, but since the truck is on a lift and off the ground, I was able to spin the wheels to see what is being reported by the sensors using the scan tool. What is really strange is that the new sensor does not report anything back when I spin the wheel. However, if I spin the front left wheel it reports back speeds for both the front left and front right sensor. Keep in mind that the front right wheel is not spinning. The speed being reported for the non spinning right wheel is also slower than the actual spinning front right. Similar to what I originally see when monitoring the speed sensors while driving.

There are no codes on now and there were no codes on prior to starting this experiment. Btw I did try and unplug the speed sensor on either of the front wheels and a corresponding code was set so I assume that the computer is aware of both sensors.

I didn't even want to post this as the behavior seems odd, almost like an internal electrical issue in the ABS module itself. I am going to leave everything as is tonight and drive it for a bit.

Well that stinks. Not sure what to tell you at this point as it's really odd. You are sure that the bearing you replaced has the ABS ring on it? I assume so seeing the issue seemed more recent. I think I would try getting the rear sensor that matches out and putting the old front one in it's place to prove things out. I know that may be a pain.

Actually, I ended up swapping the rear right sensor with the original front right one. The rear came out super easy.

Both sensor are Toyota OEM with matching part numbers as expected. Both have an Ohm reading very close of each other. Even after swapping the behavior is still the same. I just returned the Amazon sensor, no reason to keep that.

Even if the ABS ring was missing, why would spinning the driver's side by itself cause a reading on the passenger side? Also, that Bluepit bearing has been on for around 35k miles already.

I don't have any codes and have driven about 20 miles. This problem was intermittent so we can't assume anything. I am going to let it be for now.