[mbumpus11]

Hey everybody.

A couple of weeks ago I purposefully stranded myself out on the beach 22 miles from the nearest cell phone service for a weekend. Check out this view:



Anyway, I tell you this because immediately after getting home my driver's side door lock actuator motor went out. I could lock the door manually, but power lock button/keyfob/etc wouldn't work and lock my driver's door. Very frustrating.

I diagnosed the problem and came up with the solution thanks to this forum, and found this great video to help: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z0m__FBSI9o (part 1), and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AbRTg7L5nsE (part 2). This is great when you get to the actuator itself.

The whole process took me about 45 minutes, and I was taking my time.

Link to the actual motor: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mabuchi-Nich...72.m2749.l2649

The Youtube video wasn't specifically for the 5th gen 4Runner, so I'm hoping to help someone here below. Here goes....

[mbumpus11]

Start by opening your door. This is our canvas.



I used a small, computer-tool-sized flathead screwdriver for this. Wedge it into the panel just in front of the visual door lock mechanism to pop out the small panel inside the handle.




This reveals the first screw to release the panel:



Next there are two pop out pieces that don't come out (they stay suspended), and conceal two important screws to remove.




Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove all of them:



Next, pop off the triangular panel by your side mirror by gripping the flat side (closest to you in the driver's seat) and pulling towards you. Comes right off.




Next start at the bottom door pocket and start prying the panel's clips away from the base of the door. Once you get one they will all start popping off easier. Once they are all unclipped you can grab the interior door handle and hold it to lift the panel off towards the top to release the full panel from the door.

Make sure you release the harnesses (window/lock controls, puddle light at the bottom) by squeezing the clips. Also release the door lock/opener cables by pulling them out of their housing and lift out of their connection point. This view is looking down from above the panel.





Voila!

[mbumpus11]

Peel back the weatherproofing stuff to allow access into the door cavity



Disconnect the actuator connector



Use a torx tool to get these three bolts out which secure the actuator to the door



This part is a little tricky. Reach into the cavity and you'll feel the actuator. There is an internal rod that presses down as you pull on the outside door handle. I don't have a picture of this since it is inside the door, but once the actuator is loose from the bolts you can start wiggling the piece around slightly to disengage that rod. I found it easiest to push on the actuator as if I was trying to send it through the exterior door panel as this allows the body of the actuator to slip around the window track. Don't get frustrated, it comes out relatively easily. Here's what it looks like when you get it out.

[mbumpus11]

Now the fun stuff, and where the "part 2" Youtube video comes to help.

Unscrew the screws shown here:




Remove the weatherstripping



Give it a little elbow grease and wedge out the metal faceplate here, and set it aside. Toughest part is getting it off of that little wheel you see on the right side of the image/metal.




Unscrew the retaining screw on the backside of the actuator



There is a little piece that looks like the dust cover on an AR-15 magazine, pry that off. Then pry open the clips that are all around the actuator body. There is nothing special to these. Just a lot of em, and then the body lifts apart in two separate pieces




Here's the problem! This little motor. Put your flathead in where I show mine pointing, and lift up. Motor will pop right out.




Old motor on bottom, new motor on top



You'll see the motor blade is flat on one side, and this is what the piece it connects to looks like.



Put it back where you found it



Putting the two sides back together is only tricky if you don't get the mechanisms lined up properly. Put this one in what I would call (and what the video calls) the "middle" position



If the mechanisms don't line up, then it won't go back together, but make sure the piece I'm pointing at in the pic gets into the respective slot



After that, pop all the clips in, make sure to put your cables back in their housings, and head back to the door!



I didn't take pictures of the re-install because it is pretty straightforward, and I was ready to get it done - had places to be (not really, just a concert). Feel around for that lever rod I mentioned earlier. That goes into the yellow-colored "tab" by the main metal faceplate.

Hope this helps someone else!

*****EDIT***** - ADDITIONAL INFORMATION:

When reinstalling the door panel/actuator on the truck, do not forget to line up the internal door handle action rod with the actuator lock barrel. If you forget this step, do not fret! You don't have to undo your reinstallation work and remove the panel again. There is a grommet on the door that lines up with the doorjamb, and sits at about the 10:45-11:00 direction from the door latch. Pull that grommet and you can see into the door cavity where the internal rod either will/won't be lined up with the actuator barrel. Good pictures from @mo8ftbl are ere showing how to access that step: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/2856103-post24.html. Also, his steps are explained better here: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/2811228-post22.html.

Best of luck!

[MSState09]

Perfect timing for this write up, mine just went out last week.

Are you able to see where those two rods connect to once you get the door apart? That looks like the only tough part.

Really appreciate this write up and the pictures, hopefully it'll be just as simple for me.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[enapa]

Is this a common thing? It seems odd to me that a 2 year old door lock actuator would go bad.

[mbumpus11]

Originally Posted by MSState09

Perfect timing for this write up, mine just went out last week.

Are you able to see where those two rods connect to once you get the door apart? That looks like the only tough part.

Really appreciate this write up and the pictures, hopefully it'll be just as simple for me.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yep, you can clearly see where they connect when you pull the panel off the door frame.

When you get to that part, just pull the cables away from the panel and then pull up. The ball will slip right out!

[flyrv9]

Great job, thanks. I'm sure I'll have to do this eventually. So far our 2013 hasn't had this issue with any of the doors. Is the motor the same for all 4 doors?

[mbumpus11]

Originally Posted by enapa

Is this a common thing? It seems odd to me that a 2 year old door lock actuator would go bad.

I've heard of several people having these issues, and it's such a small motor that it makes sense that issues could occur. I agree that it is ridiculous that a 2 year old part could fail like that.

Benefit here is that the motor is typically the problem, and the part only costs $7 and 45 minutes of time. Way better than paying $700 at the dealership.

[mbumpus11]

Originally Posted by flyrv9

Great job, thanks. I'm sure I'll have to do this eventually. So far our 2013 hasn't had this issue with any of the doors. Is the motor the same for all 4 doors?

Yes, same motor for all four doors/locks to my knowledge. The rear actuators are a little smaller, but the process would be pretty similar I would imagine.

Hope you never have to! But in case you do, hope this helps.

[jrandom]

Great post!

Including the name of the motor in case that Ebay page disappears:
Mabuchi Nichibo Door Lock Repair Motor Flat Shaft - Brass Collar FC-280PT-22125

@1engineer one for the Write-up sticky!

[BlackWorksInc]

Originally Posted by enapa

Is this a common thing? It seems odd to me that a 2 year old door lock actuator would go bad.

I see them fail on even a couple month old vehicles from time to time. Easy warranty job to replace the actuator, a bit pricier for the customer out of warranty.

Usually it's the little hobby-shop motors inside that die out. I actually have a box of power mirror motors (they're similar in how they aren't soldered in on most power mirror units) specifically for when the Left/Right and/or Up/Down stop working in a friend's Toyota/Lexus or my own vehicle.

I can't imagine the quality of the motor is all that different than what you're getting Ebay really. They're all very simple mass produced units mainly used for hobby motor stuff. I recall some people actually sourced the original factory units that were used vs. cheapo units on ebay. What that means in regards to longevity, I can't really say? I'd have to ask my buddy who used to work at a hobby shop if the "high-dollar" motors like this are that much better than generic Chineseium ones.

That being said, Toyota did issue a Tech Tip/Documentation advising dealerships and owners to be careful about using cleaners/detailing agents around the actuators as they could seep in and cause the units to fail. Not sure how realistic that is, but I'm guessing when they cracked open a lot of these actuators that were replaced under warranty that's what they were seeing?

It's sorta funny because it's the same Chineseium parts that are in a Corolla, 4Runner, Mercedes, Ferrari, ect.

[mbumpus11]

Originally Posted by jrandom

Great post!

Including the name of the motor in case that Ebay page disappears:
Mabuchi Nichibo Door Lock Repair Motor Flat Shaft - Brass Collar FC-280PT-22125

@1engineer one for the Write-up sticky!

Thanks!

Good call on the exact name of the page disappears - thanks for adding that, too!

[Renegad44]

This seems to be pretty typical with Toyota and Lexus....just had my wife's driver's door, and front passenger door lock actuators replaced a couple of months ago, they both went out within 2 weeks of each other, a 2013 ES300.....both replaced under our extended platinum warranty. Which brings the question, your rig is 2 years old, and the warranty doesn't cover that?

[BlackWorksInc]

Originally Posted by Renegad44

This seems to be pretty typical with Toyota and Lexus....just had my wife's driver's door, and front passenger door lock actuators replaced a couple of months ago, they both went out within 2 weeks of each other, a 2013 ES300.....both replaced under our extended platinum warranty. Which brings the question, your rig is 2 years old, and the warranty doesn't cover that?

It's typical for every make and model made in the last... 10yrs or so? They all use this style of door actuator for the most part with a gear reduction drive off a small hobby-shop motor. I've heard the same story for just about every make out there. Though some of them hav