ok - so I answered my own question - there is a 20mm or so blanking grommet on the door jamb - I took this off loosened the torx screw behind it & this let the lock barrel come out - I could then thread the shaft back into the actuator - took 3 minutes - hope this saves someone time in the future if their keyed entry doesn't work after an actuator change! Feel a bit stupid but then doing your own car repairs is always a humbling experience at times.........
Does everything look correct in this pic ? I think the metal piece with the “L” on it is causing my problems
anyone had a second motor die after replacement?
i'm trying to decide between motor replacement vs. actuator replacement (drivers door is dead and passenger door is dying)
Does everything look correct in this pic ? I think the metal piece with the “L” on it is causing my problems
Like y'all I have had lots of issues with my power door locks. The dealership replaced the driver side front actuator under warranty. The passenger front failed soon after that out of warranty, and I replaced it. Now both those are acting up again.
There's also been intermittent issues with both rear doors but neither has been replaced yet.
My question is, is it possible there's some electrical problem other than simply replacing all the actuators (again for the front doors)? Like a relay or something that could be causing the problems? It just seems odd for all four to be having issues, especially when 2 have already been replaced.
Appreciate any help!
Thank you,
Brandon
Note: Mine is a 2014 Toyota 4Runner Limited 4WD