Driver's Door Lock Actuator Motor Repair [step-by-step w/ pics!!]

Than You!

Thanks for putting in the awesome work, and time that it took to write this up! Mine went out on my driver door (02 limited) and have been in need of replacing it but just haven't had the time to get it done. Will get done soon!
 
ok - so I answered my own question - there is a 20mm or so blanking grommet on the door jamb - I took this off loosened the torx screw behind it & this let the lock barrel come out - I could then thread the shaft back into the actuator - took 3 minutes - hope this saves someone time in the future if their keyed entry doesn't work after an actuator change! Feel a bit stupid but then doing your own car repairs is always a humbling experience at times.........
 
ok - so I answered my own question - there is a 20mm or so blanking grommet on the door jamb - I took this off loosened the torx screw behind it & this let the lock barrel come out - I could then thread the shaft back into the actuator - took 3 minutes - hope this saves someone time in the future if their keyed entry doesn't work after an actuator change! Feel a bit stupid but then doing your own car repairs is always a humbling experience at times.........

You made me check, and turns out my own "fix" didn't get that part right either! Did you do this with the door panel off, or did you just back it out, then screw the torx back in while everything was "operable"?
 
I really appreciate you guys putting up all the pictures and information. I am just wrapping up my install. I'd say this took me about 3 hours. Removing the door took about 15 minutes, the actuator only took about 15 minutes, but putting the stupid panel back together...holy crap. Anyways i just wanted to say thanks. Also, i had the same issue with the actual key lock not catching the barrel. You do not have to take the panel apart.
 

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This is why this forum is indispensable! Great writeup.

I just did both driver and passenger doors on my 2013. Toyota could do better with selection of these motors. So glad I found this forum soon after I got my 4runner.


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So I did this and it fixed the issue. However, my Interior door handle doesn’t work to unlock or open the door. I’m assuming it’s an issue with the cable, I just don’t know where.

I’m hoping I don’t have to open anything up again

Any ideas ?
 
Does everything look correct in this pic ? I think the metal piece with the “L” on it is causing my problems
 

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Thanks for this post. Called Toyota and they quoted $550 to replace the actuator. This is a better option for sure.
 
Does everything look correct in this pic ? I think the metal piece with the “L” on it is causing my problems



I had to take my door apart multiple times cause one little piece would be out of place and I’d be rushing and not notice.

Nothing in your picture jumps out to me as being out of place. Look at the OP’s pictures and compare it to what you have now. Also, put everything together outside of your vehicle and pull on the cables by hand to make sure everything works as expected (lock and unlock, unlock by pulling the interior handle cable).

If you can put up another picture with more light and a different angle and I’ll check again if anything looks out of place, or maybe someone else will notice something.

Good luck.


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anyone had a second motor die after replacement?

i'm trying to decide between motor replacement vs. actuator replacement (drivers door is dead and passenger door is dying)
 
anyone had a second motor die after replacement?

i'm trying to decide between motor replacement vs. actuator replacement (drivers door is dead and passenger door is dying)

Not on the 4R yet, but I had all four on my Tundra replaced under warranty. Two of them have crapped out since and I've replaced the motors for six bucks/ea. (and I have two more motors sitting on the shelf just waiting). First one took me about 45 minutes. Second one about half that.
 
Does everything look correct in this pic ? I think the metal piece with the “L” on it is causing my problems

I think the piece with the "L" should be in the halfway point of the slot it "attaches" to instead of all the way maxed out. Not sure if that would fix it, but when I did it I recall that being a specific part of it - to have that slot piece in the 'halfway' position.

This should make the "L" piece and the "slot" piece effectively straight across instead of an angle like it appears in your picture. Hope this helps!

By the way - about to do this on my passenger's side door..the girl is getting mad that I have to reach through every time to let her in!
 
Like y'all I have had lots of issues with my power door locks. The dealership replaced the driver side front actuator under warranty. The passenger front failed soon after that out of warranty, and I replaced it. Now both those are acting up again.

There's also been intermittent issues with both rear doors but neither has been replaced yet.

My question is, is it possible there's some electrical problem other than simply replacing all the actuators (again for the front doors)? Like a relay or something that could be causing the problems? It just seems odd for all four to be having issues, especially when 2 have already been replaced.

Appreciate any help!

Thank you,
Brandon

Note: Mine is a 2014 Toyota 4Runner Limited 4WD
 
I haven't had any problems with my 2015 4Runner (or even my 2003), but I did have the same or similar problems with:

1992 Acura Legend
1994 Chevrolet Suburban
1999 Volkswagen Jetta
2001 Volkswagen Jetta

All required new actuator motors. Only the Suburban got the entire mechanism replaced (me = lazy). So, it is safe to say I know what can go wrong. I am subscribing to this thread because this is a fantastic write-up. Cheers!
 
My 2017 on the driver side was broke from the factory. When I've bought it I didn't check it, but when I've check it a week later was a loud noise. Went back to the dealer and they confirm that was the motor.
They fixed on warranty, but was brand new with less than 100 miles when I've tried :)
 
May sound like a dumb question, but how is the actual motor powered? I don't see any wires coming from the motor itself? Does it lay on a powered surface or something?

I have a dead driver motor. Or maybe dying? It won't lock, infant, that's how I first noticed the problem because when I would press the lock button on my key the single chirp would not be heard. I could, however, hear all of the other locks engaging though, but when I would check my door it remains unlocked. But does this affect the vehicle from not chirping upon attempting to lock it??

It still unlocks though...if I physically lock the door by pressing the little lock switch inside the door, it'll unlock with my key fob - & I'll hear the double chirp sound.

Thanks all!
 
Like y'all I have had lots of issues with my power door locks. The dealership replaced the driver side front actuator under warranty. The passenger front failed soon after that out of warranty, and I replaced it. Now both those are acting up again.

There's also been intermittent issues with both rear doors but neither has been replaced yet.

My question is, is it possible there's some electrical problem other than simply replacing all the actuators (again for the front doors)? Like a relay or something that could be causing the problems? It just seems odd for all four to be having issues, especially when 2 have already been replaced.

Appreciate any help!

Thank you,
Brandon

Note: Mine is a 2014 Toyota 4Runner Limited 4WD

Bump -- curious if this door lock issue could be anything other than bad door lock actuator motors, such as a bad relay. Thank you!!
 
Has anyone replaced the motors on the rear doors? I'm wondering if there's anything significantly different to watch for when disassembling /reassembling because of the child lock mechanism.

I've already replaced the motors on both front doors without issue.

If I can give any advice, I would have bought a 4 pack of the replacement motors to start with so I didn't have to wait to order/ship for fixing the other doors when they stopped working.

Also, I've noticed that when one of the locks isn't locking that I will not hear a confirmation beep when locking with the key fob. That's my clue to check all the doors and find which one didn't lock.
 

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