Save some frustration and trade it for a non KDSS.

I was thinking about leaving the rear sway bar intact but removing the front and using the method that rochmpr used of pushing the piston up and securing it there in a compressed state with a u-bolt or similar.

In that scenario, why wouldn't the rear continue to function? Or vice versa if you pulled the rear and left the front?

Not saying you're wrong, just trying to better understand... Wouldn't the force of the compressed piston mimic the upward force of the sway bar? It's all a closed system and the kdss doesn't realize that the sway bar is off right?

Isn't that why rochmpr has no kdss lights lit up—because they system doesn't realize anything is abnormal?

Just curious… anybody actually try doing this?

Unless you can permanently close the shutter valves - the cylinder that's still connected will force pressure on the other one and probably break whatever you use to tie it up. Also it will float freely when the valves are open. So it'll move - but not be controlled like it is with KDSS. KDSS is a lot more effective than just a disconnected sway bar. If that's all you wanted - it's super easy for Toyota - or you - to build. Just replace the cylinder with a cheap off the shelf cylinder and add a 12v solenoid valve and a reservoir. You can lock or unlock on command. You lose the body stabilization effect that is the core value of the system.

So you'll basically get a very stiff rear sway bar if you can fix the piston in place with limited travel. Or minimal rear sway bar effectiveness. Neither one is a very good outcome. The rear is the place you would most want to remove it though. Why are you wanting to change the front? You can use KDSS with a front long travel suspension setup if you build a custom bracket to mount the sway bars to the new control arms. It should be pretty easy to fabricate the brackets. There's at least one long travel Tundra that has KDSS installed from an LC200 front and rear.

because the way it works is it either lets the connections "float" or it makes the connections "fixed" in which case when the drivers rear is pushes up the drivers front pushes down. it just pushes opposite, if you fixed the rear up it would push down on the front drivers side, it just wouldn't work.

Thank you both for the more detailed explanation.

I'm in no hurry to ditch kdss, more just a hypothetical.

I do feel like the front is where I'd want to gain more articulation and the kdss definitely limits it. In my experience, the rear flexes like crazy and was thinking that by leaving the rear intact, I could preserve some degree (like half) of the on-road benefit of kdss.

Anyway, I've seen a few non-kdss 5th gen owners do a front sway bar delete but leave the rear intact so that was really the impetus for my question.

I know the Nitro Gear LC 200 uses Tundra lower control arms and retains kdss… a custom extended bracket sounds like something worth exploring.

Cheers.

I am going to +1 the "if you want to remove KDSS, trade it in for a non-KDSS". Does KDSS really limit articulation that much? Anyone have some numbers to prove this?

The IFS has pretty limited travel, I don't think it is really limited by KDSS. I have seen my suspension many times when one front wheel is fully stuffed with the LCA against the bump stop and the other wheel is at full droop in the air.

Not sure if this is fully compressed on the driver's side, but it is near full droop on pass side.


This is full stuff pass side and full droop driver side; there just isn't that much wheel travel to work with

It can in the rear if you go with longer shocks and extend the bump stops, the panhard bar will hit the KDSS cylinder.

Don't remove KDSS.

I mean yeah if you want to build a seriously modded rig like a few of the guys have and have a different daily driver. If you do lots of pavement driving do not underestimate how the handling will be changed (you probably will not like it).

I don't do extreme stuff with mine, but love KDSS for the ability to do a 5000 mile road trip, have great comfortable, crisp handling on the highways getting to Moab, then traverse the White Rim Road, then back on the highways.

If you really want to build a serious rig, like a few mentioned I'd just trade it in on a non-kdss. Despite what some say, it's not likely to easily find a buyer for those KDSS parts so don't plan on that.

I realize this post is 6 months old now so this could all be moot!

the theoretical/technical limits of articulation are the same with KDSS and non-KDSS, in practical use though KDSS has more articulation, not less


(unless you're completely changing your suspension, then it just depends on if anything is in the way)

Due to human error my KDSS light is on, and truck is in for the bleeding procedure today at the dealer.. initial report shows there may be some parts needed.

Went through most of the sway bar removal threads and it may be plan B. I'm already on aftermarket suspension with higher spring rates, compression adjusters, and wheel spacers all around providing extra track width. Guess I may try it out for some time to decide.

For all you folks looking to get rid of your restrictive KDSS parts, I'm happy to help out

Hi guys,

Any pros and cons of KDSS? Why would removing KDSS be a better option than just buying a 4Runner without KDSS. Reason I am asking is i am in the market for a 4 runner with KDSS and wanted to make a good decision

Zillions of threads on this topic going back to 2010 when KDSS was introduced. Here are a few to get you started:

KDSS or not? Why?

KDSS vs Good Aftermarket Suspension

Yes or No on KDSS

IMHO the biggest "pro" of having KDSS would be the on road handling. KDSS eliminates some of the body roll that is associated with BOF SUV's. People will argue that better springs/shocks will eliminate body roll more effectively. I find that point to be moot cause springs/shocks can be changed on KDSS 4runners also. I've also read that KDSS doesn't handle as good on "washboard" type roads, I've owned both and I'll say I didn't notice any substantial difference. A couple of cons would be having to trim the PRO skid plate if you ever wanted to add it and if you are gonna lift it drastically, KDSS may be a hindrance. I personally don't think removing KDSS would be a better option than buying one without. I am under the impression that some people can't leave well enough alone and have to "mod" everything about their vehicle, I just don't see the point. Granted several folks on this forum have built awesome looking rigs and most of them probably more capable than my somewhat stock runners, it is just not for me. I do like to view the pics of these "modded" rigs and can appreciate the work that goes into their builds but I personally would not chop a $40,000 vehicle that I have to drive daily.

just pull the pistons off the front and fully remove the rear one, find an OEM non KDSS sway bar for the rear. Front would be fine without one if you're running some Kings anyways.