How do I swap this to an AOB switch

DeserT4R

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I want to install my hidden light bar this week and luckily my light bar came all wired up with a relay and fuse on the line. Unfortunately it came with a plain switch and I want to swap it with an AOB style switch. I looks like I would just need to clip the wires going to the switch and splice them with the harness on the AOB switch, but how do I know which wires are the correct lines? There is a close-up if the junction that plugs into the relay that I could probably reverse engineer, but i wanted to double check before I screw up my first wiring attempt on anything other than audio equipment. Thanks!


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Thanks, I have that same diagram. What I am unsure about is how do I go from the pre-wired switch that is on the harness that came with the light bar to the AOB/CH4x4 style harness. Do you think I could assume that the wires going from ‘86, 87, etc’ on the relay would be similar what I would find on other diagramed examples like this?
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Thanks, I have that same diagram. What I am unsure about is how do I go from the pre-wired switch that is on the harness that came with the light bar to the AOB/CH4x4 style harness. Do you think I could assume that the wires going from ‘86, 87, etc’ on the relay would be similar what I would find on other diagramed examples like this?
71343ff57f1ee036d080f5ff24667113.png



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I'll try to keep this simple:

That relay should have the following connections:
30:Power input, either from Ignition circuit or straight from battery depending on if you want to be able to use the light with the keys out. Make sure it's fused as close to the battery as possible. An add-a-circuit in the fuse block under the dash would work great here if you only need the light when the keys are in. Use a good size wire gauge.
85: Ground wire, anywhere on the chassis should be fine
86: AOB switch input (green wire coming from AOB switch)
87: Ouput to light bar, again use a good size wire gauge since this provides the actual current.

The AOB switch should have the following:
Red wire: 12v source, again either tied to the Ignition circuit or straight from the battery. This uses a negligible amount of current so you can cleanly tap in to an already fused line if you'd like
Black wire: ground, again anywhere on chassis is fine
Blue wire: Illumination source. Tap into a circuit that's on when the headlights turn on.
Green wire: output to terminal 86 on relay. This uses hardly any current so feel free to use a small gauge wire (24 gauge is plenty)

Terminal 87 from the relay will connect to the red wire on your lights, the black wire from the light bar should be grounded wherever convenient close to the bar.

EDIT: Just realized I kinda over-complicated it. The directions above work if you want to completely rewire it, but it can be done simpler: If you cut the supplied switch off, you'll have three wires left: White, Blue, and Black. Connect White wire to the Green wire on the AOB switch, Black to Black, and Blue on switch to Red on AOB. Then just tap into an illumination circuit and connect that to the blue on the AOB. That takes a few steps out and should be simpler for you, although not as clean IMO.
 
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It's very simple, if you cut the switch off you will have 3 wires, those 3 wires go to 3 of the 4 wires on the switch like Jeffy indicated, you have a 12v source, a ground and a power signal to relay the power to the light.

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Then you just tap the illumination light off the wiper heater switch and you're done.

mvimg_20180601_203824_e654c09b8f8ee1dff778d4103bb6ede09ce84e71.jpg


No need to overcomplicate.
 
I'll try to keep this simple:

That relay should have the following connections:
30:Power input, either from Ignition circuit or straight from battery depending on if you want to be able to use the light with the keys out. Make sure it's fused as close to the battery as possible. An add-a-circuit in the fuse block under the dash would work great here if you only need the light when the keys are in. Use a good size wire gauge.
85: Ground wire, anywhere on the chassis should be fine
86: AOB switch input (green wire coming from AOB switch)
87: Ouput to light bar, again use a good size wire gauge since this provides the actual current.

The AOB switch should have the following:
Red wire: 12v source, again either tied to the Ignition circuit or straight from the battery. This uses a negligible amount of current so you can cleanly tap in to an already fused line if you'd like
Black wire: ground, again anywhere on chassis is fine
Blue wire: Illumination source. Tap into a circuit that's on when the headlights turn on.
Green wire: output to terminal 86 on relay. This uses hardly any current so feel free to use a small gauge wire (24 gauge is plenty)

Terminal 87 from the relay will connect to the red wire on your lights, the black wire from the light bar should be grounded wherever convenient close to the bar.

EDIT: Just realized I kinda over-complicated it. The directions above work if you want to completely rewire it, but it can be done simpler: If you cut the supplied switch off, you'll have three wires left: White, Blue, and Black. Connect White wire to the Green wire on the AOB switch, Black to Black, and Blue on switch to Red on AOB. Then just tap into an illumination circuit and connect that to the blue on the AOB. That takes a few steps out and should be simpler for you, although not as clean IMO.



Thank you guys, that’s what I thought I should do, just wanted to be sure. Is there a specific way you suggest I tap into a neighboring switch to have it dim with the interior lights? Looks like I need to buy or borrow a soldering iron.


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I'll try to keep this simple:

That relay should have the following connections:
30:Power input, either from Ignition circuit or straight from battery depending on if you want to be able to use the light with the keys out. Make sure it's fused as close to the battery as possible. An add-a-circuit in the fuse block under the dash would work great here if you only need the light when the keys are in. Use a good size wire gauge.
85: Ground wire, anywhere on the chassis should be fine
86: AOB switch input (green wire coming from AOB switch)
2b8fd9acac96f106c42715e558a846e8.jpg

87: Ouput to light bar, again use a good size wire gauge since this provides the actual current.

The AOB switch should have the following:
Red wire: 12v source, again either tied to the Ignition circuit or straight from the battery. This uses a negligible amount of current so you can cleanly tap in to an already fused line if you'd like
Black wire: ground, again anywhere on chassis is fine
Blue wire: Illumination source. Tap into a circuit that's on when the headlights turn on.
Green wire: output to terminal 86 on relay. This uses hardly any current so feel free to use a small gauge wire (24 gauge is plenty)

Terminal 87 from the relay will connect to the red wire on your lights, the black wire from the light bar should be grounded wherever convenient close to the bar.

EDIT: Just realized I kinda over-complicated it. The directions above work if you want to completely rewire it, but it can be done simpler: If you cut the supplied switch off, you'll have three wires left: White, Blue, and Black. Connect White wire to the Green wire on the AOB switch, Black to Black, and Blue on switch to Red on AOB. Then just tap into an illumination circuit and connect that to the blue on the AOB. That takes a few steps out and should be simpler for you, although not as clean IMO.



Quick question: looking at the wiring on the relay it look like the blue is the hot and comes off 30, black is ground and comes off 86, and white isn’t matched with anything on the relay and comes off 85. Could that be right?

I can also confirm it’s a freedom switch, same set up as CH4x4


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Last edited:

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