Hey guys a couple of questions I was hoping you could help me with.

I bought a Motive power bleeder to flush out my brake lines. Truck is a 2016 low mileage but hasnt had brakes done since factory. Ugh

Anyhow Ive noticed theres a service manual calling for starting at the front bleeders than moving to the back? I also have seen many saying start at Passenger rear the farthest from master cylinder and work to drivers rear then the fronts? Whats the right method here? I assuming im correct that the motive will be used with ignition and truck off and no pedal depression during the flush. I have already bought a 43mm adapter for the brake reservoir.

So heres the questions

1. What is best way to drain system? Rears first then fronts?
2. Any preference on DOT 3? Factory fluid or other?
3. I think I need about 4x32 oz bottles for a full flush of lines?
4. Anything wrong with say treating the bleeder valves with a squirt of kroil or other penetrant say a day before trying to loosen the bleeders?
5. Whats best, taking tires off or leaving them on?
6. Any issues known with the motive? I was going to fill the jug with 4 bottles and maintain at 15psi for the pressure bleedout
7. Does it make sense using say a clean 60ml syringe to suck out alittle bit from the reservoir first before starting the pump out?
8. I was going to just hang the catch bottle with line in the area near each caliper. Is this basic enough?

9. Am I missing anything?

Thanks for any help on this. I havent done brakes in a few years, rust may be an issue on the bleeders (i have a 10mm flare nut wrench). Any concerns if I have to use an impact gun on bleeder if its stuck? Appreciate any help on this.

Once its finished and I turn on the truck other than check for leaks and ensure top off level to max in reservoir, torque bleeders to 8lbs is that about it?

Hope youre all having a great day, thanks for any help.

Not sure I can answer all your questions, but here are my observations:

1. The bleed sequence depends on the how the lines are routed. But on modern cars with anti lock brakes, there are separate lines for each wheel. The "start with rear" was the old rule before anti lock brakes and the rear wheels shared a line. What does Toyota say is the proper sequence?
2. Brake fluids get better with modern manufacturing methods, thus the general rule is to use the highest DOT number.
3. Never use an impact wrench on the bleed ports,; they will break off. (Yes, I have had to drill out broken bleed port screws and it is not fun). Soak them liberally with a penetrating oil for several days before you do your procedure. Sea Foam penetrating oil is the best.
4. It is immaterial whether you take the tires off or not. Much easier to get to the bleed screws with the tires off.

Edit:
1. As you bleed the brakes, the fluid that firsts comes out will be really dark. When it comes out clear, you have fresh fluid in the line. Just repeat the bleed sequence several times to be sure you always get clear fluid out.
2. The purpose of a power bleed is to keep from getting air bubbles in the line. As you bleed the brakes, be sure to run out the fluid until all bubbles are gone. Perhaps removing old fluid from the input reservoir will just add a big air pocket and not be beneficial? Don't know that for sure.

thanks FK, yeah I am abit puzzled on the which side to do first and front to rear. Toyota service method though I think is not based on a power bleeder, at least the one in print ive seen, seems to be based on person using brake pedal and the open and close method on the bleeder.

As for going to DOT 4 I was worried there may be mixing issues with that and Toyota Dot 3... ive read a few places that say you can mix them and a few places that say you cant..

Hence me being puzzled and wanting to know before I start.

Thanks on the impact no go, Ive got some bad corrosion on this truck in some places and have had to drill out some M8s a few times. I dont want to have to do this with the bleeders.

Use DOT 3 or Valvoline synthetic which is compatible with both.
I would remove as much fluid from the reservoir as possible before starting, and refill with fresh.
I would use the brake system pump to do the rears, pass side first, then driver.
I would then do the fronts, pass side first, then driver.
I have not used a Motive Power system, but have used the Mityvac using the procedure just listed, using MV only on the fronts.
Yes, soaking the bleeder screws first may be helpful. I use a 6-point socket to break them loose first time.

Thats one thing I was confused about was using the system pump to do the rears with the system already being pressurized with the motive as opposed to vacuum with Mityvac. I looked hard at the Mityvac and saw either good or bad reviews with some saying it had trouble on the rears (without pump) and the Motive power bleeder was better. Ugh.

I havent done brake work in 20 years. It was alot more straightforward then.

Page 1716 tells how to replace the brake fluid: TOYOTA 2016-2019 4Runner Repair Manual RM27F0U

Thanks Ive read a copy of that on the bleed. Not sure how it jives with the Motive though? I assumed with the Motive you wouldnt need to use the system pump/pedal and just push it through the reservoir and out the lines? Any ideas on this? The service manual is for the basic pedal and pump method. Ugh this is confusing or im thinking it wrong. I am getting stupider as the years go on..

Hey Grug - off topic question. I know you had a limited 4runner with XREAS - who did your suspension work to remove it and install your current set up. I'm thinking about doing something similar but it's too much for me to tackle on my own / get done in a reasonable amount of time just working on it solo

Humble you may have missed the disaster post..

Anyhow I did the install and removal myself. Rears were easy. Went with Kings with adjustable reservoirs. Front went easy..until I had a serious accident and the truck fell off the stand and my hand got pinched between king coilover body and the tie rod section. Pain was brutal, I was wearing Impact gloves which maybe have saved some broken bones. So it fell, the axle snapped. I called a wrecker to have it towed. Went inside to get the phone and the guy started it up cause hey why use the winch..and drove it forward..with the knuckles disengaged and axle broken..with a broken axle and this took out the front differential. almost 4 or so months later I have a new differential (still have the old one for repair in a box). It cost alot of cash..

Years ago I use to do alot of work on my Audis with suspension and it was always easy.. I have turned into abit of a mangler on the 4 Runner.. but am getting better again. Ive installed SPOD, suspension, racks, many different lights..light bar, Xl80s, rear back up pods and some other stuff.

I have a commercial grade spring compressor mounted to the wall for coilover adjustment, but since the disaster I havent fine tuned the Kings yet as the drivers front is down 0.8 inches or so from passenger which is likely normal with lean.

Removing Xreas? Put on splash shield and took bolt cutters to the main lines and cut them. It was very easy and I wasnt planning on using them again as they are junk. Rear spring shock install very easy.. the front.. was operator stupidity on my part, not a good pickup by the wrecker and a parts shortage.

It ended up costing me $9k all in.. so now I ask a few more questions than I normally would.

damn wtf. you could have lost your hand. this is exactly why I don't want to tackle something like this myself. and gladly pay someone to help me do it. did you leave the hard lines and actuators for XREAS in tact? I have seen some videos on removing them and it looks pretty easy to do - that I can do myself. but installing the front shocks and doing everything in one day is where I think my skills won't be enough lol.

I've found a couple shops I could drive to and get the work done. but I'd also consider paying someone whos done what I am trying to do already and knows exactly what to do... $9K expense though, that's probably half the value of my 4runner. damn.

You shouldn't need the power bleeder for the rear. I think the ABS pump does that for you. Haven't done my 2016 yet but I will soon.

I've done a bunch of others with the Motive though. I use mine dry. The only thing putting fluid in it does is make you have to break pressure less times to top off. Which isn't a big deal anyway when you're only using it on the front. It's much cleaner dry. And stays clean for next time.

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And I see your X-Reas questions. I did mine a month ago. Small bolt cutters and very basic hand tools and it rips right out.

It might have added an hour to my suspension install, if that.

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No I chopped out hard lines and actuators with bolt cutters.. very easy to remove.. hard lines pull out easy. The actuators have a couple of bolts than they are off. Removal when you go Conan (but not like the suspension) is actually very easy!!!

I have two 4 runners. My 21 Still has XREAS and my 16 is heavily modified now.

FOr the front shocks get a tie rod bearing press/puller. I have details on mine but basically you mount the jaws on the fitting and slowly press out the bolt.. make life very easy. I of course bought this after the disaster..