Rear diff?

Kygreenwood11

New member
Hey everyone. New member. New driver. Virgin mechanic. My 95 completely seized up on me cruising home in neutral. It was terrifying. Found that the rear drive shaft would catch whether in 1st, reverse, neutral.. it won't hardly budge. I think it's the rear differential and I'm gonna drain it and take it apart see if I got metal shavings in the fluids... Good idea? Bad idea? Thanks for the help
 
It never hurts to change it out. Why were you "cruising in neutral?" Toyotas can't just go in neutral. It will screw up your tranny because it doesn't get oiled.
 
...

well, the driveshaft won't "catch" anything per'se.. it simply transmits power from the transmission to the rear axle. You should always check the simple things first. In this case I would be sure your universal joints are working right. they can cause binding like I think you are trying to describe.
 
Thanks guys. So it's not good for toyotas to be in neutral to save gas, etc? Roger that we will take a look at the u joints first thing. I also heard from someone that maybe it could be a throw out bearing? I know the u joints and t.o. Bearings are a relatively cheap and easy fix. Thanks again just trying to decipher what it could be
 
Thanks guys. So it's not good for toyotas to be in neutral to save gas, etc? Roger that we will take a look at the u joints first thing. I also heard from someone that maybe it could be a throw out bearing? I know the u joints and t.o. Bearings are a relatively cheap and easy fix. Thanks again just trying to decipher what it could be

Correct, you should never just roll around in neutral other than short distances like coming to a stop. Same reason you have to pull the driveline to flat tow. Your input shaft has to be spinning in order for your tranny to be oiled.
 
Correct, you should never just roll around in neutral other than short distances like coming to a stop. Same reason you have to pull the driveline to flat tow. Your input shaft has to be spinning in order for your tranny to be oiled.

if the engine is running, the input shaft IS spinning.
unless you push the clutch in.


to the op, can you describe exactly what happened? what seized up?
 
Well it started with a grinding noise in the front end going at high speeds and high winds that we figured must be the heat shield. Maybe not!? Later I was coming down the road and there was some clunking noises that would bump me around. I pulled over, got back on the road and put her in neutral thinking it was maybe in the tranny... BIG CLUNKS, rear wheels completely stopped! Had to drive the last quarter mile home ten feet at a time. Buddy said the rear driveshaft looked like it was "catching". Appreciat the help
 
Well it started with a grinding noise in the front end going at high speeds and high winds that we figured must be the heat shield. Maybe not!? Later I was coming down the road and there was some clunking noises that would bump me around. I pulled over, got back on the road and put her in neutral thinking it was maybe in the tranny... BIG CLUNKS, rear wheels completely stopped! Had to drive the last quarter mile home ten feet at a time. Buddy said the rear driveshaft looked like it was "catching". Appreciat the help

jack the rear tires up and spin the driveline, see whats up. make sure its in neutral, with the front tires blocked so it wont roll. watch the rear yoke, see if it screws IN/OUT slightly as you rotate the DL back and forth.

I have a suspicion the rear pinion nut has backed off. fairly common for Toyotas.
 
Or the pinion and carrier bearings and gears are toasted. I'd drain the diff oil and see if peices of metal come out. It's an easy job and could probably use a change any way. But if you see large amounts of metal coming out save up every penny and expect about a 1200 repair bill just did bearings in a Dodge and it came to about a grand and that's without replacing gears. And if there is a large amount of metal take it to a trusted shop. Not an easy fix lots of tolerances that have to exact
 
Or the pinion and carrier bearings and gears are toasted. I'd drain the diff oil and see if peices of metal come out. It's an easy job and could probably use a change any way. But if you see large amounts of metal coming out save up every penny and expect about a 1200 repair bill just did bearings in a Dodge and it came to about a grand and that's without replacing gears. And if there is a large amount of metal take it to a trusted shop. Not an easy fix lots of tolerances that have to exact

$1200?! Dang! It should not cost that much on a Toyota, but I can see a Dana 60 costing that much.
$250 for a R&P (Yukon or similar)
$150 for a setup kit
~$200 for installation (if you pull your own 3rd)
= ~$600 give or take
 
Ya I'm sure the diff fluid needs to be replaced, that's definitely on the list. I've been looking for used rear differentials just in case and they're running at $3-500. If its the pinion nut should the whole pinion "region" be replaced? Haha sorry that's amateur talk. I know theres the ring and pinion, is that all I the same section that I'll be working on?
 
$1200?! Dang! It should not cost that much on a Toyota, but I can see a Dana 60 costing that much.
$250 for a R&P (Yukon or similar)
$150 for a setup kit
~$200 for installation (if you pull your own 3rd)
= ~$600 give or take

Yes if you do most the work yourself it will be much cheaper but r&r for the dodge was about 800 it self. And I figured 400 for gears and bearings would get quality stuff
 
Hell if my third member was ****ed, I'd just look around for another. Picked up a 4.88 Third member for $70 at a junky last year
 
It never hurts to change it out. Why were you "cruising in neutral?" Toyotas can't just go in neutral. It will screw up your tranny because it doesn't get oiled.

Ummm so going on the hiway down hill for a while in neutral is bad for the trans???? why????
 
Ummm so going on the hiway down hill for a while in neutral is bad for the trans???? why????

From what I understand is that if your in neutral it's ok but with the clutch in is bad because the only way for the trans to get oil everywhere needed is to have the input shaft turning and the only way that happens is when the clutch is released but it would not be getting as much oil because it wouldn't be spinning at the same speed as it would if it were in gear. [MENTION=67129]92-SR5[/MENTION] am I wrong about this?
 
From what I understand is that if your in neutral it's ok but with the clutch in is bad because the only way for the trans to get oil everywhere needed is to have the input shaft turning and the only way that happens is when the clutch is released but it would not be getting as much oil because it wouldn't be spinning at the same speed as it would if it were in gear. [MENTION=67129]92-SR5[/MENTION] am I wrong about this?

Here is an article I found.
Coasting in Neutral or Gear to Save Gas - Coasting and Fuel Economy - Popular Mechanics
 
yeah theres no way it would be bad for your tranny, coasting down the road or sitting in your driveway, at a red light etc its constantly in neutral. that would mean that your better off always being in gear? thats whats so great about standards, you dont have to stay in gear going down hills, you can just coast at an idle. think about it, in neutral your rpm is like 900-1000, whether your going down the highway or sitting still the motor is burning the MINIMUM amount of gas, vs staying in gear and your at 2000-2300 rpm's etc... at first I thought the OP meant he had an AUTO and was shifting to N from D on the highway or something, but yeah I constantly coast to save some gas around town. Not so much on the highway since you have to pretty much maintain your speed at 70 or youll be slowing down on the next hill haha
 
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Thanks for the help a month ago or whenever we talked guys. That being said I need more help. Turns out the transfer case is shot. I've been looking for an used one. Am I correct thinking that a 1st gen or 2nd gen tcase wouldn't work for my 95?
 

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