Recent content by 98Base4R

Thanks, I appreciate the advice. If the metal gaskets can be re-used, I would only need these, right?

2002 3.4 started misfiring, running rough, CEL flicker 2 days ago. Compression is No. 6 cylinder is 75 PSI. 4Runner is my kid's car, he works full time and has a full class load at college. He needs to drive it until we can get it repaired. It will take a few weeks to find and install a...

Timing Belt Installation Step By Step No, you stated the steps succinctly and clearly, and 100s or 1000s of future TB installers will find them here. I think the steps you listed are what I will follow next time. You are correct that as long as you have the belt binder clipped to the cams...

The line on the belt for L Cam seemed a bit off, so I counted teeth and verified that was correct. I started one tooth off (counter clockwise), and when I tightened up the tensioner, the crankshaft was lined up correctly. We rotated it through 10X, and are satisfied. Thanks!

I tried Brian.'s cam pulley first approach, and along with loosening idler and tensioner, it slid on like butter. So thanks for that advice! I was still a tooth off on the crankshaft on the L-Cam R-Cam CR line up, but the according to the belt I was on the mark. The L-Cam belt mark doesn't...

To get started, I'm trying to do this: 1) Line up the crankshaft to it's pointer, driver's side and passenger side cam pulleys to their marks 2) Loosen up tensioner and upper idler pulley, located between two cam pulleys 3) Put the belt mark on the right place on the crankshaft (belt mark ends...

That is a very good idea. I did back off on the upper idler pulley, but I had not found / think of loosening the tensioner. Thanks!

I'm in western KC, by Legends. Yesterday kiddo and I got most of the way through the timing belt service on his '02, but are stuck on getting the new TB on. We have gotten the good out of the project, worked slowly and learned. We have gotten it on, but we're a gear cog or so off each time...

Resolved: White Wire was broken After more days of battery light flicker, the light came on and stayed on. There is a white wire that runs from the 3 pin connector on the back of the alternator to a 4 pin connector at the base of the under hood fuse box. I dissected all of the electrical...

I put the charger on the Sienna battery and at first it acted similar to the 4Runner, slowly climbing to almost 15.5V, but then it seemed to stabilize and dropped down under 15V. I swapped the battery from the Sienna to the 4Runner and the battery light is off.... thanks for having me look...

With charger hooked up on 15A setting, voltage climbed to 15.75 in 10 minutes before I stopped it. That seems to agree with your bad battery theory, right? Thanks!

The battery is a Deka is is marked Nov 2016. The 4Runner hasn't run for since Friday. With the engine off I turned the headlights on bright to break up the battery's surface charge. Headlights back off, the voltage was 12.4V. I have hooked up a battery charger to see if the charge rate seems...

At this point, should I: A. Keep playing parts store roulette and try for another part (maybe from NAPA this time?) B. Get the original alternator rebuilt with a new voltage regulator, and insist that it test out under 15.5V before re-installing C. Order a new alternator from Camelback...

Battery light started to flicker and/or stay on for a second or two, so I replaced it with a Carquest 80A from Adv Auto. Adv Auto's testing machine was down that day, so I wasn't able to test battery or alternator I was replacing. I kept the alternator I removed, didn't turn it in for the core...

Thanks for the recommendations. All of these are good possibilities, I just need to figure out which one is the simplest one to get to for drop off and pick up. Is it only necessary to check alignment the 4Runner after removing and re-installing the front struts? I am used to front wheel drive...