Recent content by AgeOfOctane

It happened on my '96. The lock is held in place with 2 screws that screw into a couple of plastic tubes. On mine, the 2 plastic tubes broke off. Once I got access to it (I can't remember what was involved in removing the license plate and handle assembly), I was able to put it back together...

I replaced mine with a couple of Ford f series truck horns from a junk yard. Easy enough swap, cheap and proper truck sound.

I just wanted to say thanks for this post. Mine had seized up on me and I was having some high and erratic idle issues. In my case I was able to free it up by pushing it back and forth and cleaning the valve with a tiny stainless steel brush (meant for a dremel). After it started moving a...

Reviving this thread as I'm pretty fed up with the dipstick on my 96. I'm assuming that since the markings are at different levels between the years that the tubes are different lengths. I'm wondering if I can pull a dipstick and tube from a 99+ the next time I'm at the junkyard or off ebay...

That sucks! Sorry to hear it. I would say it's time to hit your local pull a part salvage yards. You should be able to score the bumper, lights and fender pretty cheaply. Have someone else install them if you don't feel comfortable, but it's all just nuts and bolts really. If the frame is...

Not to argue with anyone here, but my experience is that a failing master cylinder will usually stop fine, but the pedal will sink to the floor while sitting at a stop light. If your pedal stays put once fully engaged, I wouldn't jump on replacing the MC. My 96 had excessive pedal travel. The...

Here's my old '96: My DD, work truck, weekend warrior, etc

Usually when this happens it's because the shifter linkage bushings have desintigrated. They are blue and there are 2 or 4 of them depending on your truck and they cost about a dollar a piece. Replacing them really takes the slip out of the shift handle. Beyond that, there is a small relay...

I sent mine back to Rock Auto and did NOT receive a core refund. I had read on here that some people had, so I thought of it as a gamble, but I lost. I suppose it just depends on who opens the box. :noidea:

Use Toyota Parts for the rear brakes I suffered from very long pedal travel and pulsing brakes when I bought my '96. The P.O. had the rear brakes replaced and the shop used aftermarket drums, which promptly warped. Right after I got it I did the Tundra upgrade and my pedal feel didn't improve...

Glad it finally started for you. Intermittent issues are nearly impossible to track down when they aren't acting up. You'll probably not be able to find the issue until it won't start the next time. My bet is still on the ignition system. Check the link I sent you so you know how to check for...

I didn't realize you had a distributor. I would go ahead and replace the distributor cap. Wouldn't worry about oem for that part either, it's not a mechanical part. Pick one up at any local parts store, swap it over and see if that helps. If it doesn't, just return it. Just the cap, mind you...

Here you go: Check Engine for Spark - No Start Troubleshooting DIY

She said it cranks over, but won't start, so the starter system is working okay.

YouTube will be your friend if you've never done it before. the process is pretty simple all you do is pull a spark plug and connect the wire then ground that spark plug against the engine well one person cranks over the engine. If you're getting spark you will see Sparks happening on the spark...