Recent content by arthurm

Understood. So, is that the correct part number I noted? Worst case, I need to be prepared for replacement.

I just had the same issue with the CEL and other lights, as you did. Did replacing the valve solve everything for you? Is this the correct part for bank 2? 25702-31012, replaced by 25702-31014

So, I purchased the parts (from Japan: accumulator $550, front cylinder $520; from US Toyota dealers: front lines and bolts $240, fluid $133). Paid a dealer, familiar with the system, to replace all and refill $800. Initially, I had asked to replace just the accumulator. However, since the...

Update: Dealing with a family member with dementia on a daily basis, I simply did not have the time to invest in a DIY effort. So, I purchased the parts (from Japan: accumulator $550, front cylinder $520; from US Toyota dealers: front lines and bolts $240, fluid $133). Paid a dealer, familiar...

Is it standard to replace the thermostat and housing, 16031-0P010? I'm trying to find the part number for just the thermostat but too many pop up. The maintenance thread above does not list it. My 2013 has only 65K and it's likely stuck open.

I had several Walmart ones with good success. But, despite the images on their website, they're all maintenance free now. I don't imind that on our Rav4 but I want to maintain my battery and get more life from it. This maintenance free scam is pathetic. Johnson, Clarios I believe are no longer...

00544-24F60-575 84 month 575 CCA around $200 00544-24FT2-530 60 month 530 CCA around $140 Original Panasonic 80D26L-MF 550 CCA Same as Honda part# 31500-SS0-A02, long superceded by several prt numbers. I am finding prices lower for the Honda. But, can't tell without visiting dealers if they're...

So, my 2013 has its original 24F battery which is finally coming to end of life. I've been searching for a replacement and the only one that is NOT the maintenance-free crap type is Toyota's own 24F, part# 00544-24FT2-530. I'm trying to keep the cost around $150, which fits Toyota's 60-month...

Can you post your method here please? If it's the same as the service manual, don't bother; I already know that. If it's simpler, as some others are doing, it would help us all. FYI, someone recommends bleeding just at the accumulator at 700psi or so until no more air comes out. No need to mess...

So, I need to swap out my accumulator and the new one arrived. At each of the four line ports there's a plastic plug with an o-ring fitted around the the threads, not in the port where the flare goes. The videos I've seen don't show any o-rings. The repair manual doesn't mention it either...

As the title says, does anyone know of a KDSS shop knowledgeable in KDSS refill? My accumulator sprung a leak from major corrosion, I purchased a new one, just need it installed and refilled. Willing to travel a bit to get it done.

Service manual says remove fluid through bleeder, then remove the lines before removing the accumulator. I don't think there's enough play in the setup to just pull out and replace the accumulator, without removing lines. Anyone have any experience with this?

So, to remove all the fluid, what's the procedure? I've checked several threads without a clear answer. I'm thinking just connect to the H valve, undo both shutter valves a bit and press the H valve to a hose. Or, just undo the bleed screw and let it come out. ???

Well, I'll add my experience to this thread, with my 2013 4R TE. I had to do an entire lift kit swap, due to rust breaking UCA's, coils. Had a shop install a Dobinsons setup and Treaty Oak KDSS spacer kit. Well, they never opened the valves to free flow the system. I get home and see fluid...

So I need to do a total swap of my lift kit, going form an old Toytec Ultimate 3-inch to a Dobinson setup. Can anyone recommend a qualified shop in Mass to do the job? Eastern Mass preferably but may consider all.