Recent content by Attrition

Their is a small diagnostic box next to the fuse compartment under the hood. All you need to flash the CEL light is a paper clip. The shop your going to is jerking you around and although they may be responsible, their customer service sucks and they don't seem to be wanting to help you out...

Toyota still sells the wire harness or "pig tail". For my 1993 2nd gen v6 the part# is 82219-35010, it costs $12. Since your 4runner is older the ends or terminals of the harness may be different.....or they may even be the same....idk. But what I do recommend is buying an actual Toyota...

I have an intermitten stalling issue also. I need to look for worn rings or a bad valve. Worst case the knock sensor is actually doing it's job. I work 50 hour weeks and I'm trying to find the time to do this. I'll keep you posted.

I told the people at Toyota (parts and service) what I was doing and that I would be doing it myself. They told me that even though I had just recently had a head gasket repair done, it is absolutly necessary to replace the head gasket.

My 93 4runner is doing the same, but at certain times it will run really sluggish. I read your thread and feel your pain. The pig tail is the wire harness that comes off the knock sensor that is inside your engine. The other female end of it can be seen underneath the intake manifold...

From my research and shared opinions it seems that sometimes the knock sensor can either go bad or the wiring "pigtail" corrodes and shorts out. It's best to just replace both while your in their. My buddy moved to AZ from Cali and he is a good mechanic so this repair should only cost me the...

The shop I took my 4runner to has a "retired" Toyota mechanic and did'nt bother to mention that I should probably replace it while he was in there repairing my head gasket and the shop wants $400 to go back in there to replace it. What a bunch of jerks. I'm glad Toyota still carries the part...

Hello folks, I have an engine code 52 for a knock sensor/ wire harness on my 3VZ-E. Does anyone know the part number for the wire harness? Is their a way to test if the wire is bad externaly from the diagnostic box by the fuses? I had a shop do my head gaskets, timing belt, water pump, and...

Is the clicking noise constant no matter how fast you are driving or does it get faster as you accelerate? It could be a bad U-joint in your drive shaft. Where the end of your drive shaft meets with the rear-diff, gab it and see how much play is in it. If their is a lot of play in it than you...

So I changed the distributor and my yota still stalls. I've checked for vacuum leaks and can't seem to find anything. Anyone with any ideas on what could cause this stalling issue???

....and the stalling is only at start up. It has never stalled while driving or idling at a traffic light.(knock on wood)

I got the same issues with my '93 2nd gen v6 and have had it for 6 months now. In my case I will drive for about 30 minutes to an hour before getting to my destination. If I try starting it in less than 1 hour it will stall. After stallling I usually wait 30 to 45 minutes and it starts right...

You should ask if the timing belt and water pump has been replaced. I would also get the current owner to take the car to the emission station if there is such a thing where you are at and see if it will pass.

In the case of repairing in replacing cv boots, if the one side is starting to go out, than the other side is going to start giving out as well.