Recent content by Awz

slyfox, I've removed the bypass, since it wasn't working anyway I took it out. The behavior never changed. When I first installed it or when I removed it. It didn't change after I had the pump and valve replaced, it didn't change when I fixed the exhaust leak. I even sprung for the Thorley's...

I used the hewitt bypass kit. Keeps throwing the valve stuck open code even with the blockoff plates in place. And yes it's limp mode, otherwise I wouldn't care. It doesn't throw the codes when it should. Summer has been consistently in the 90's. Couldn't get anywhere without clearing the codes...

Thank you. Guess I'll keep looking. Or maybe it's just time to trade it in. :(

Bump Can someone with a VVTi engine look under their hood and tell me if their intake is metal or plastic? This would help a lot. Thanks

I know the subject has been brought up before but I was hoping for some more information. Are there any differences between the engines (Tundra, Sequoia, LC, Lexus, 4Runner) other than one was made in Japan and the other in the US? I'm still fighting a secondary air code after a year and a half...

I used the hewitt tech. Even they didn't know why it would keep throwing codes. The plates were installed correctly, I did it myself, pretty straight forward. It's always been the same code P2440. The first code that popped after I bought it. The first code to pop after the pump and valve were...

The sensor has been replaced with a factory Toyota part. The shop that replaced it couldn't see any problems with the new sensor while monitoring it on the scan tool.

duffdog, I've already tested that. Valves and pump command on and off. Light rarely comes on if I'm just idling or at constant freeway speeds. From a stop it will sometimes come on as soon as a touch the throttle. At freeway usually not until I try to pass someone. Going into limp when you're...

No change. If anything it's worse now.

I drive with a code reader constantly hooked up. But I'll try disconnecting the battery at lunch.

Okay, so I've been fighting this nearly since I've owned it. Originally I had P2440, so I replaced the pump and the valve. Light came back, I bought the bypass kit, with the block off plates. Didn't work. I splurged and bought some Doug Thorley headers to fix the exhaust leak. That didn't work...

Thank you guys. Hopefully it'll be done this weekend. I've got new gaskets, studs and nuts. I hope this kills my code. At the very least it'll get rid of the tick.

So I've got a nice tick coming from the passenger side manifold. I'm pulling it off to try to weld it this weekend. I know it's not the best method but I'm on a budget right now. Any tips on getting this out without pulling the whole engine? Also any experience with this and P2440? I've already...

NeutronJon I am absolutely interested. I've printed off the PDFs you provided. So tired of clearing the codes all the time. Just let me know what I'm looking for, and as soon as I find a place above 15 degrees to work on it I'll get on it.

Alright, so this is something that I've been fighting. I originally wanted to go the "correct" way and had the parts replaced. P2440 came back, limp mode. I bought the hewitt-tech bypass. Still getting the code. Bank1 valve open. The only thing I can think is that the sensor is bad. The block...