Recent content by Axewhlder

Breaking them is fine by me. They're very old (and shot) shocks. As long as the new ones go on easy I don't mind a little destruction. :D Thanks again guys.

I DID use the search function. I searched "rear shock" and "shock replacement". Try that and tell me what you come up with. I also checked the sticky'd database at the top of this forum and there was nothing there either. I'll be honest and admit I didn't want to go through 11 pages of possible...

Well my RR shock decided to crack so it has to be replaced. I removed it with the bottom nut becaue it was banging on the chasis. This happened yesterday so I havent had a chance to get into looking how it's done. How do you get to the top mounting points? Are they under the carpet/seat/trim...

Is this OK to run in my 98? I'm about to do a drain and fill and wanted to make sure. Thanks.

I just did mine no more than 10 minutes ago. I went a little conservative but I can tell the difference. I may play around with it more in the future but for right now I'm content. Idle is the same just better throttle response. Thanks for the write-up. :biggrin2:

I put about 120 miles on it today. At least 70% of that was in 4wd due to a sudden snow storm. Still got the smell and looked for leaks with nothing. I'm going to try to torque down the valve covers to factory spec first and see what happens. I figured with how much I was working it I'd see some...

It could be although I didnt think to check. The valve cover gaskets have been replaced in the last 50,000 miles or so. Do they really fail that quickly? When I changed my plugs 2 weeks ago there was no sign of oil dripping anywhere.

If I drive a little harder I get this faint burning rubber smell from the front end. I don't smell it in the cabin but if I walk past the front of the truck I can. I'm thinking it may be an over-tightened belt since I do have a bit of chirping when at idle. I just bought 3 new belts as normal...

I got it in today finally after realizing what a dumbass I was with the mounting. Did a shake down run and no leaks or anything. Topped off the fluid and good to go. Have to button up a few small things but for all intensive purposes I'm done. Thanks for all the help guys. Btw - 263k worth...

How did you get your hands between the rad support and the back of the radiator. There's like an inch - maybe two of clearance. Did you loosen anything?

Nothing is easy with my vehicles it seems. lol I mounted it with the ports down. I was going to mount it the way it's written up but I didn't realize that I had to take off the fan shroud to get the zip ties through. I didnt have time to mess with it and take it off. I do all this outside on...

That's what I was looking for. Thank you. Why are some guys still keeping the rad in the loop? I thought the whole point of this was to avoid the pink milkshake issue? Seems to me it only drops the trans temp 10 degrees or so by adding an external cooler.

I've went through all the install threads because I hate being a pain in the ass. However my big question is about the lines.. In this picture - - it says you only disconnect one line? Shouldn't both the feed and return be disconnected? This kind of confused me. Also, best mounting seems...

This wasnt on my 4Runner. I have a turbo Dodge Avenger that I opted to run an 8 injector setup with stock primaries and 30lb secondaries instead of the sfmu. Have a walboro 255... soooo I cant really answer that question. lol

Not sure if any of you supercharged guys could use it. I had it on my car and it worked great for a turbo application. I just dont need it anymore and went a different way. I'm entertaining offers if anyone is interested. I paid 350.00 for it new.(obviously not looking for that) Hit me up...