Recent content by azrex

Your high-side pressure at 1500rpm is way too high and the low side is a bit high. At idle, your low side should be roughly 30. Possible causes: weak fan clutch or overcharged system or partially plugged condenser, which could be something internal or the fins plugged by dirt or mud. A bad...

Do you have 12+ volts at the connection on the compressor at idle? Is it possible the air gap on the clutch is too wide? it should be about .025".

On my '97, it would lock all the doors but not unlock them. In this case it was the fuse panel and module below and left of the steering wheel.

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This if from the MUD forum for Land Cruisers but it might be of help.Stolen FJ62 - SE Portland - FOUND!!! RECOVERED!!! | IH8MUD Forum

You don't need a puller to remove the clutch from the compressor body. Once you remove the bolt holding the hub on (a 1/4" impact wrench works well) you can remove the hub. Be careful to not lose the shim(s) that space the hub to set the air gap. They look like small washers. Once the hub is...

Is it possibly the idler pulley?

I'd look at the expansion valve as possibly being faulty.

That speaks to airflow through the condenser. Check for dirt or debris clogging the fins and check the fan clutch for proper operation.

A couple things to check: When it quits cooling, is the compressor clutch still engaged? Is the low-side reading still in the green when it quits? If you happen to be using a can with the gauge, they're notoriously inaccurate.

You can borrow (rent) a gauge set from Autozone. The gauges on those cans are notoriously inaccurate. In the automotive world, 40 degrees below ambient is considered acceptable. There can also be a noticeable difference in vehicles, even if they're the same make and model. Is it colder when...

I would guess that your coupler isn't depressing the schrader core on the high side. If you only have 30psi on the low side with the compressor not engaged, you're low on refrigerant, which means there's a leak somewhere.

I would probably let it sit under vacuum for an hour or two and then check it. The only way I can think of that it could lose the refrigerant and not have a leak is if the pressure relief valve opened and then closed after releasing the refrigerant.

Did the shop tell you what the pressure readings were? If they were normal ~30 on the low side and ~200 on the high side, there's something else going on because it should blow plenty cold with those readings. Is it possible your heater valve is stuck open or not closing completely? All the duct...

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