Recent content by bambi_runner6

I would just run it down the frame (maybe inside the frame?) all the way down and secure it with zip ties and leave plenty of slack at the end for axle travel. I'm about to undergo this too, but My compressor is in my cargo area and I'm doing front and rear lockers, so I'm trying to decide if I...

I don't know if I know of a company that sells 1-1/2" body lifts for our trucks (I'm sure there are). I work at Toytec Lifts, so I'll do a shameless plug and mention we carry 1 and 2" body lifts haha Your rear bumper will lift with the body, keeping the gap between bumper and body normal. I have...

I should have mentioned that a 1 or 2" body lift would help immensely. I didn't have a body lift the first time I installed mine. And the first time I did them, I took the motor off the mounts and used an engine hoist to lift it and maneuver it. When I replaced my engine recently I made sure to...

There isn't a header out there for our motors that will be easily to install unless you plan on removing the engine or lifting it off the engine mounts to shoehorn them in. NA, you probably might make a little more power, if any. If you plan on supercharging, remember, you'll make more power...

I have my own question about the MAF now too haha Has anyone with the older style MAF converted to the newer style and also has the FIC? Did you adjust your MAF table to represent the change in airflow between the two styles? I.E. increase all values by 1 or 2%

1. I did logging on mine before I supercharged my motor and I believe the highest it ever read NA was about 3.2v. I don't know if it will be the same for anyone else though. I imagine it would be. 2. Are you only adjusting the fuel table? You have to adjust the o2 table also to "lock in" the...

For me, my maf was on its way out, and I'd rather replace the cheaper, newer style maf than the expensive older style. I had an extra box and maf laying around so it cost me nothing to replace a failing maf haha

Luckily I saved pictures from when I did it! First image (as long as I upload the attachments correctly haha) is the older style wiring and the other two are the newer style wiring

Haha it's one of the perks of working there! Sidenote related to working there--I wish I had experience with other resi's to provide the answers you're looking for in terms of comparisons, just so I don't sound like I'm completely biased to my own company, but I really do love them. I'm hard...

I've been running the prototypes for months now, and no issues. I love them actually haha they have me addicted to resi's now! I'll be running them until I can afford to LT and throw on extended travel resi's on all four corners. I haven't run any other resi brands to compare them too, but...

What's the shock part number you bought? If it's D558, they should be set on the lowest perch, otherwise it is too much lift for the given shock. Did you receive the shock with the perch set like it is?

AEM1GR it should include all three .hex files with the installation. They should be in the same folder you save your tunes in. If they aren't there anymore, let me try to find a link or see if I can figure out how to upload them here

The firmware confuses me haha I found one thing that says that early OBII vehicles run better with z104.hex, while Toyotas run better with z107.hex I've tried researching the differences between the three firmwares, but I can't find much. I assume yours runs fine with the z110.hex since you're...

https://www.dcpowerinc.com/vafproducts/list?make=Toyota&model=4Runner&year=1997&engine=3.4L+V6+5VZ-FE I went with this alternator. Direct plug in. No splicing, no adapters, nothing special about the install. They use Denso parts. They've raised the prices quite a bit since I purchased mine...

Haha no problem. I've spent WEEKS googling every feature and process on these piggybacks haha glad I actually learned something!