How To: AEM F/IC-6 Install, Tuning, and Help Thread

Well I just pulled the trigger and bought the AEM for my Tacoma. Amazon had them for $333 and prime shipping.

Mine is an 01 so I shouldn't need the AFR resistor, correct?
 
Well I just pulled the trigger and bought the AEM for my Tacoma. Amazon had them for $333 and prime shipping.

Mine is an 01 so I shouldn't need the AFR resistor, correct?
I am not 100% sure about that as the chart listed on here is 4Runner specific and the Tacoma may be different. I would consult your FAM that you will download from the TIS. I am fairly positive that it will say AFR instead of OX on the wiring diagram.
 
Injector response time

I think it might be time to have a good hard look at injector response times, a very short amount of study is showing it can be very important and it varies significantly between every injector model/brand/type

Going to make some small experiments and see what I learn
 
Ignition slew rate

I had to adjust the ignition slew rate today, up from 125 to 200, it was limiting the acceleration of the motor, sometimes it would cut in when accelerating hard in 2nd gear.

Still chasing the little stumble off idle at the moment.

Did play with the injector response - went up to 850 to better suit my injectors and the system voltage which is around 14V. No dramas on this one so far
 
So my local radio shack didn't have 1/4W 2.2K resistors. I got 1/8W and 1/2W 2.2K. Will the 1/2W work? Could I use 2 1/8W?
 
I got my harness back from Boomslang. Looks like they deleted the cam inputs and outputs out of the harness. No resistor. Anyway, it is having a hard time starting again. I'm not sure what to do. I tried to setup a base tune once it started and then it wouldn't start at all. Tried it again and changed the injector size, which seemed to help some. Did any of you have to do an initial tuning to get yours to start and idle properly? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
So my local radio shack didn't have 1/4W 2.2K resistors. I got 1/8W and 1/2W 2.2K. Will the 1/2W work? Could I use 2 1/8W?

1/2 watt will work just fine, it's just larger physically for the extra heat if you were actually putting 1/2 a watt across it.
 
PSA: upgrade the firmware on the FIC if you haven't already. My truck stalled at idle, and would randomly spike lean and rich while driving - it was awful. Upgraded the firmware, and all is cured and perfect.
 
The firmware confuses me haha I found one thing that says that early OBII vehicles run better with z104.hex, while Toyotas run better with z107.hex
I've tried researching the differences between the three firmwares, but I can't find much. I assume yours runs fine with the z110.hex since you're running it hahaha Mine runs fine with the z107.hex too. Maybe I'll try the z110.hex and see if I find any differences. I did notice that z107.hex had a much smoother idle and acceleration than the z104.hex though
 
I'm about to give up. I can't get it to start with the FIC connected. Starts fine with the bypass. Boomslang says there's nothing wrong with the harness. After I've sent it back to them once already because it was throwing code 0340. Any ideas?
 
I'm about to give up. I can't get it to start with the FIC connected. Starts fine with the bypass. Boomslang says there's nothing wrong with the harness. After I've sent it back to them once already because it was throwing code 0340. Any ideas?

So with the boomslang harness and the AEM jumper installed, it runs just fine? Try to reflash the FIC and see if that changes anything. Are you able to connect to the FIC with your laptop and configure it at least?
 
So with the boomslang harness and the AEM jumper installed, it runs just fine? Try to reflash the FIC and see if that changes anything. Are you able to connect to the FIC with your laptop and configure it at least?

Yes, runs great. I have flashed it. And yes I can connect and configure. Just no start.

I have tried everything that I have read about. After I got it back from boomslang the second time, they had taken all of the cam connections out of the harness. I'm at a loss, and think I will go with URD. I know it doesn't have all of the features, but seems a lot less complicated.
 
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Well if it runs with the jumper in place, that's a good indication that the wiring is fine. It may seem like a pain, but order another FIC off amazon or something and see if the FIC is faulty. If it works, then return the original.
 
So, I went out and played with mine tonight. I got the tune that @MTD sent me, THANK YOU.
Recap... last time I drove it had warmed it up, installed Boomslang/AEM/FIC then drove 100 miles, stopped for 5 minutes and no start with the AEM still hooked up, nothing changed we stopped to get a sandwich.
Swapped back to no AEM and continued on and back home.
Tonight, it started right up - no AEM, installed Boomslang and AEM.... no start. Crankcrankcrank......Removed EFI fuse for a bit, installed, retested, no start.
Removed AEM, started right up.
Installed AEM, loaded MTD tune, crankcrankcrank. no start.
Remove and checked every wire and pin on the Boomslang harness - again - all test ok w test light - This allows current to flow to confirm and not just continuity - All good.
Tried one last time with base tune installed and crankcrankcrank...no start.
Remove BS and AEM, fired right up.
Installed 2 gallons of VP Unleaded race gas and went and ran the shit out or it......
Will call AEM and see if they have any input.

:(
 
Ignition

I'm about to give up. I can't get it to start with the FIC connected. Starts fine with the bypass. Boomslang says there's nothing wrong with the harness. After I've sent it back to them once already because it was throwing code 0340. Any ideas?

Make sure all the ignition values in the area where the vehicle idles and starts are at 0. If not, it will be VERY reluctant to start. Obviously check your wiring too, I suspect something isnt right there if you cant get started and your IG map is adjusted correctly


Can anyone link me to the repository of the reflash hex's pls?

Also, with the RPM calibration, I suggest from experience that it should be done at 4000rpm - the reasons for this will be obvious once you have done it
 
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