Recent content by bayaz

13-15mpg. Bumpers (medium light), skids, sliders, drawers, roof rack, 4.88 gears. Don’t go above 70mph (will be 3000rpm with my gears).

1989 3VZE. After hitting the accelerator when sitting, the RPMs go way low (<500), and truck can actually die. Same thing happens after turning the truck on after stalling. Idles fine at 800rpm. No vacuum leaks. New injectors, new 02 sensor. Any ideas?

Thanks, I’ve rebuilt these diffs too, albeit without the locker, and I was equally puzzled. The shop said there’s too much load on that side so when they removed the threaded ring there was very little thread left on the carrier. My guess is the clip wore out and developed play? Let’s see if the...

Team, reporting back here. The culprit was the thread on one of the third member towers. The load bearing side that also has the locker. The thread was beginning to collapse, which lead the backlash to increase over time since it’s one of the places where it’s controlled on the ring side...

Thanks all. The shop agreed to take a look at it, so will report back once I Know.

About 1.5 years ago, had a shop put nitro 4.88s into my 4R on 33s. Followed break in instructions from the shop and changed the gear fluid as required. Generally change gear fluid every 15k miles. Truck sees trails every month or so but rarely difficult trails. About a month ago, started...

Hi all, Just had Dobinsons IMS shock blow up so have to rebuild it. The stock oil is nowhere to be found in the US. Which one did you use to rebuild your shocks? Thanks!

No, they are not created equal. I haven’t encountered any that are the same thickness as the Toyota frame - usually the plates are too thick, which makes it a PITA to weld on, as you need higher temp to weld thicker steel.

So I just put a Jack under each LCA and lifted to the point each front wheel was spinning. Looks like the play I get comes from SPC UCAs. Both upper ball joints are shot - one to the point it’s metal on metal clunk, which is crazy because I replaced one of them half a year ago. Further, 3 out of...

I use a Milwaukee with a replaceable bit, so I slide in a 1/4”. Problem with most shops, including Toyota dealer, is that they’ll use 1/2” but that comes on impact used to take off lug nuts - that’s way too much torque.

Thank you for confirming it. I’ve asked people before and was told that 4Runners naturally have a lot of play in bushings. I tested bushings by putting a pry bar in and was able to get at least an inch of wiggle. Any further recommendations on testing it? Replacing the LCA bushings is a lot of...

I use an impact now. As long as it’s 1/4 inch you’re good. That said, I’ve replaced rivnuts before too but like because of off-road abuse.

I drilled out a larger hole in the frame. You gotta do that to put in a rivnut. The hole is larger than the existing captive nut, so you just displace it with the drill and then use a magnet to fetch out.

Reporting back here. Tried going into 4wd and it does nothing to the front end noise. Still sounds & feels like I’m going over a corrugated road when on clean pavement. I keep wondering if it could be lower control arm bushings? I have a ton of play in them.

Thanks for sharing your experience. I’ve been considering running them with TRD wheels as well. Looks like if you didn’t have spidertrax, you’d get away with less cutting? Did you have to hammer the pinchwelds? Move the rear axle back?