Recent content by bentos1

I replaced my clutch a year or two ago - So the process is fresh in my mind. I am not sure what you mean by "blue clip" but I am thinking it is part of the plastic connectors that attach to the transmission on those flat studs. They slide on. Please post some pictures if that is incorrect...

You have done a ton of work on that truck. My locker has not worked since Ive owned my truck, really need to crawl under there and do some troubleshooting. Let us know if you do try putting potentiometer on the CTS

Mark_BC this is most likely the coolant temp sensor in open loop. The high idle is to help get the coolant up to temp so you have heat faster. I am sure there are other things as well but this is my understanding. My CTS failed a while back and my idle would always stay high no matter what. If...

One of my rear windows didnt work when I bought my truck. I wasnt entirely sure where to start but here is what I did: swapped the rear window switch from the working side: no change took the door panel off, jumped window motor from battery. Window would go up and down but no switch would work...

Its not the key, I am using an aftermarket key for my truck which rolls down the back window fine. The window does not go up with the key is the issue I have. I did remove the back hatch panel and pulled the electronics off the back of the hatch lock. I had a broken wire which a soldered back...

Ive had no start/no crank issues from poor battery terminal connections before. Check to see if they are tight. I have had my truck not start and they seemed tight. I removed the terminals and reconnected and all was fine. Sometimes its really simple things that can help

nissanh, thanks for the reply. This was my though process to try and do a full flush on the system next. I asked about the radiator as mine seems to be working well (even though it is old), but I have a 5 speed. No need to worry about the milkshake. Hopefully I can flush the system...

you could try bleeding the air out like this guy: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lFA0tDZlm9Y&t=7s I tried that the other day for 20+ min. Squished the hoses and had the front of the truck up in the air. Made no difference for me, but it might help you if there is air down there.

vt325xi is your rear heat the same temp as the front?

Thank you for confirming that. My OBD reader shows temp reaching 87 C. You can watch the temp rise as it warms up. I dont think I saw it go over 87 C though.

When I replaced the thermostat I did have to remove lots of the coolant. Are you suggesting to do this again and clean the block out this time? You are thinking this will cause tons of particulate that it will clock the existing radiator which will need to be replaced?

This is why I find it more difficult to solve. If the rear was poor heat or the front was only poor then I would have better idea of where to search. The bit of heat I have feels the same front and rear at all times. I have been leaning towards an air pocket but the tricks I tried to burp the...

Thank you RockyrT4R. Just for clarification I have 1997 which uses all cables from what I can tell. The cable which moves this area is part of the HOT/COLD HVAC slider on my truck. This is connected and I can hear and see the parts moving via the cable. It is possible that the part is not...

Soldering those pins is a total pain! At least adding solder to the resistors cured the clock problem by the sounds of it. Maybe that little bit copper bypass will hold out for years. Heres to hoping.

I have not had proper heat in my 1997 4Runner since I've owned it. The heat has always been warm but never hot. The front and back are both the same temp which makes me think it’s the cooling system and not the front heater core or controls. I have read all the threads on this site but most...