Recent content by blarchitect

I mean the centre thingy below the valance? Parking sensor? :-D

Looks good. Hope your offer was way less than the $389 asking price. Whats that semi circular protruding thingy?

^ Interesting for 96-98 members. Just need to figure out how to wire the Remote Switch (RS) connections!? For a '98 my thoughts so far: Green/Red (Up)– White plug from Black Control Unit= RS NC (Normally Closed) Green/Yellow (Down)– White plug from Black Control Unit= RS NO (Normally Open)...

Sorry for delay, been trying to find the bits and pieces I've already accumulated I have a Surf project and want to add a T4R rack. I replaced the rack on my 4Runner with one in better condition and have spare cross rails- both types, but no main channels. If you are prepared to split I would...

Are the two runners that fasten to the roof included along with fasteners? Thanks

Stopped reading at "on sale from 1998-2002"

It's a new unused OEM belt which was in a sealed stickered bag I bought in late 2015. Has the proper green and white lettering albeit part of it is not straight. So that's a red flag although the length matches the old one. I didn't count teeth. I've ordered a new one from Daytona Toyota...

I think you are onto something. Looking more closely at the pic I posted the text is squint and it appears that the Toyota text and part number should be green or yellow on these belts

I bought the belt back in 2015, which is how long I've put off doing this job. and why the part number has been superseded twice 13568-69050 became 13568-69095 and now it's 13568-YZZ03.

I removed AC compressor and bracket but yes longer bolts won't help doing install as per FSM. The crank belt mark is off by a tooth and a bit on the pulley (with pink dot at 12), and there isn't enough give in belt to pull it down to reach That's my issue. If I use the closest tooth that will...

Crankshaft pulley was exposed and has movement. I pulled it forward like your photo and put belt halfway on. Have ried tensioerr out and also very loosely engaged. Same for top pulley. Old belt has no marks but I'm using a new belt. I could try reftting it to see if the problem is replicated but...

Ignoring the belt marks makes no difference. Across cams under top pulley is fine but always end up with slack LC-WP-CP. Can't be pulled taut if belt rib doesn't reach the ideal spline on CP. Brillo's method is the closest I've got it.

I managed to get the belt on using the brillo_76 method but because there isn’t enough stretch in the belt it pulled both cams and couldn't realign them perfectly. I liked this method because for first time I had tension on the driver side and slack on the tensioner side. The problem I had...

Clamping the crank is a brilliant solution. Thanks for posting and cheers to 2TH4IST for continued support. Will update for sure.

Can you clarify? Not familiar with that term. Thanks for your input.