Recent content by bomhour

3vze hose question - YotaTech Forums Reporting in...I finally got to the bottom of the issues I was having. Ended up replacing or cleaning much of the electrical and air system on the engine. In the end it came down to a bad AFM that I pulled from a junk yard. It was all corroded inside so...

I have done all the above mentioned test. the AFM & Ignitor were swapped out with salvaged parts and it did fix the spark issue. I tested the fuel pump and the TPS tonight. The fuel pump did turn on but the TPS failed the resistance tests from the FSM. All of the specs were ok except for IDL...

Reporting back...I did the timing light test and found not spark. I put in an salvaged AFM and Ignitor which corrected that issue and hopefully fault code 14 (IGF signal is not input). Now she will turn over but will only run really rough and then stall out after about 3-5 seconds unless you...

Ok. I wasnt trying to be rude...just a little shocked at the price tag on that part. Thank you Bad Vision for those tips. I went to a junk yard and got a ignitor and, what I think is the AFM. I installed the ignitor first and did not get her to turn over until I installed the new AFM. Now...

Are you referring to this 1993-1995 Toyota 4Runner Ignition Module – Standard LX-787 - Ignition Module - Standard That's 500 bucks that you just told be to spend correct? I'm gonna wait for a second opinion. I was under the impression that the ECU would be reset due to the negative battery...

I bought my 93 3vze back in October. Since then I did the head gaskets blah blah blah blah blah. Not fun but I got her running. drove it all winter but only around town never on the highway for more than 5 minutes. So spring comes along and I pack her full of camping gear and three friends...

Update; I installed a 'T' in the heater core inlet hose and used it to bleed the system and that seems to have stopped the overheating issue I was having. Also, I replaced the radiator cap which was putting off steam during normal idle. take care and thanks for all the tips.

Update...I drained the coolant, installed a new T-stat, top and bottom radiator hose and flushed the system with a $5 dollar kit. No more overheating. I'm not sure if it was the T-stat which was already replaced once, or the brown crap that came out of the block when it was flushed but she...

The Chiltons says two on the block and one on the radiator.

Update. I burped the line for 20 minutes to remove air and added more fluid, then took her for a spin around the block. I made it about 8 blocks before she started climbing in temperature. Pulled back into the drive and repeated the burping. Lots of air in the system. When I took the cap...

I installed the thermostat with the jiggler valve at the 12o'clock position and the spring on the engine side of the gasket. That was how it came out of the vehicle and how the diagrams indicated. I'm pretty sure there is air in the system because the overheating has been starting when I'm off...

I believe that is the cruise control.

You should reference someone's pics that has a 1st gen. You can also do a google image search and find lots of pics on the web. I'm driving a 93 runner...Its a second Gen and is therefore bound to be quite different. There are several pictures of my engine at the flickr link below. I'm no...

the thermostat is brand new and the jiggler valve is at the 12o'clock position. the firing order is correct too. I read a bunch of posts about air in the coolant system. I will try bleeding the system and check all my vacuum hose routes tonight and see if that helps. thanks for your reply.

Ok, I got it running smooth by disconnecting one of the vacuum hoses from the plastic triple inlet connector on the passenger side of the intake plenum (see photo). She is running really great now but is overheating after about 10 minutes of driving around normally. I definetly had a bit of...