3VZE Head Gasket DIY advice

[mikedks]

Thanks Mike, the diagram was very helpful. BTW, how did you figure out that your vehicle needed the spring tensioner and not the hydrolic, as was factory? I'm having a heck of a time with the same tensioner that was on the vehicle when I bought it. Cant get tension.

Tell you the truth, I ordered my parts based on year, make and model. By 95 all 3.0's used the hydraulic tensioner, so that's what I ordered. I had taken it apart so many months before, that I guess I didn't realize it was spring tensioned. I found the problem when I laid out the parts to begin reassembly.

Sounds like the prior owner of your 93 tried to convert from a spring setup to a hydraulic setup and failed in the process.

 

[mikedks]

I called the parts shop tonight. They gave me a toyota part number based on my model and year...spring tensioner part number 13505 ( if memory serves). Not sure who did the last repair or how this vehicle was ever mobile, but the tensioner on there was a hydrolic (as shown in the pictures above). I will get back to the forum on Sunday when I have the new part and time to install.

That's not good, if you have a spring setup and not hydraulic like you thought, then you would need the spring, a new tensioner pulley(they are different) and the small bracket that the other end of the spring connects to. I believe the upper cam idler, the wp, and the belt are the same.

Does anyone know if you can successfully convert from spring to hydraulic and vice versa?

 

[bomhour]

This fiasco has turned into two separate threads. This is the conclusion from the other threads.

"I put some gas in the tank and magically, she ran! I did also find that the timing belt was off by ONE tooth. It only took about 30 minutes to completely dissasemble the front of the engine and check. I also bought a timing gun which was very helpful in learning how to adjust the timing. Thanks for that suggestion, I'm not sure I would of figured that part out. tomorrow I have to install & fill the radiator, bleed the clutch and put the plates on...test drive!!!

thank you,"

I promise to never to sell you a car that is completely on E. I Assumed that there would be at least enough fuel to test the idle. Wrong again......now I own a gas can.

 

[bomhour]

Ok, I got it running smooth by disconnecting one of the vacuum hoses from the plastic triple inlet connector on the passenger side of the intake plenum (see photo). She is running really great now but is overheating after about 10 minutes of driving around normally. I definetly had a bit of air in the system. So I burped the top coolant hose for a while and the temp came down. Drove some more, and it started getting hot again. Is this normal for a car that has just been filled with fluids? When she was hot there was a puff of steam coming from the back of the intake plenum (see linked photo). I'm so close now. Hopefully this is the last issue. BTW, that was my first test drive of the truck and all other systems were working, breaks, tranny, shifting, electrical etc.:biggrin2:

Hot engine problem | Flickr - Photo Sharing!

 

[bomhour]

Update. I burped the line for 20 minutes to remove air and added more fluid, then took her for a spin around the block. I made it about 8 blocks before she started climbing in temperature. Pulled back into the drive and repeated the burping. Lots of air in the system. When I took the cap off the radiator about 2 to 3 cups of fluid gushed out. So I filled her back up and tried again, burped the line, added fluid and went around the block a few more time. Same thing. When I am idling in the drive while burping the line there is no problem with the temp. It sits just below half way. I have looked around and I do not see any fluid leaking out anywhere. Is it possible that air is getting into the system without fluid escaping? I do hear a bit of air coming from somewhere behind or next to the power steering pump?

Does anyone know where the engine drain plugs are located? The diagrams in the chiltons are too general to tell. I appears to show on below the oil filter and the other behind the power steering pump. I have attached a link to a picture of an empty hole in the driver side head right back by the firewall. Is that hole supposed to be plugged or attached to something? Here is a picture...Driver Side Head | Flickr - Photo Sharing!

 

[bomhour]

The Chiltons says two on the block and one on the radiator.

 

[bomhour]

Update...I drained the coolant, installed a new T-stat, top and bottom radiator hose and flushed the system with a $5 dollar kit. No more overheating. I'm not sure if it was the T-stat which was already replaced once, or the brown crap that came out of the block when it was flushed but she does not overheat anymore. Runs great and hold to just below middle of the temp gauge. I will do a full test drive tomorrow but she did well for 30 minutes tonight around town. For anyone thinking of doing the head gasket and timing belt, here is what you might expect to spend.

• 93 4runner 197,000 mile $500-private owner
• Chiltons manual $27
• 2 thermostats $24-Aftermarket
• 1 new fuel injector $100-Aftermarket
• head gaskets kit $350-OEM
• head bolts/washers $160-OEM
• spark plugs $14-NGK
• idler pulleys/water pump/timing belt $140-Gates
• Machine shop compression test $40-Billings
• Machine shop resurfacing/cleaning $140-Carquest
• import car bolt/nut/washer value pack $10-Oreillys
• timing light $40-
• intake manifold gasket $3-
• antifreeze (4 gallons) $40-
• oil(5 gallon Synthetic) $30-Castrol
• oil filter $7-
• 1 bottle Brakleen $4.50-
• 1 tube RVT Blue $7.50-
• Misc bolts $20-OEM
• Misc fabricated tools $15-Ace hardware

GRAND TOTAL: $1672

From date of vehicle purchase to completion took 3 weeks and two days. I started work on the vehicle right away learning as I went. I worked on nights and weekends until it was done. I have been working on cars for 15 years but never anything in side the engine. This forum and others had everything that was needed as far as info and expertise goes. I did not have to go to a local mechanic for anything. Tools needed are; impact wrench for the cam bolts, puller for the harmonic balancer, fabricated tool for reinstallation of balancer, timing light, butt load of beer(local, domestic and imported), wife to hold timing belt while installing, wife to operate clutch during bleeding(not sure why they had me disconnect that). I had to buy a bunch of extra bolts and hardware because half of the engine was in the back of the truck when I bought it so I did not have a record of which bolts went where. The import car bolt kit was a life saver. Take pictures from every angle before and during dissasembly. Good luck and have fun.

 

[lifer]

Very very impressive! I wish I did not live in a condo... And had a garage... And had 15 years experience repairing cars. You rock!