Recent content by brillo_76

I have been building my old brake lines using nickel copper and stainless steel nuts for several years now. Those I only change once. As I have replaced oem lines twice before on rigs and that gets old really quick.. The life in the rust belt. :-(

Oh its an head gasket or cracked head for sure. The head gasket leak can be verified with the leak down test. The white fog and sweet smell on cold startup is a dead give away. Wither its the head cracked or the gasket at this point is irreverent. Another way to check is to take out...

Unlikely, you can do radiator leak down test to verify. You mostly can see the external coolant leaks and smell them.

No updates since April of this year is seems. I just basically been driving the winter 5 speed around. :) With inflation the way it is. I haven't been tinkering on my fleet like I am mostly am. I do have 2 frames in inventory to swap out on 2 rigs. However, that will be down the road a bit...

Great news...:D

That sucks. :-(

I have rebuilt a few calipers just to see how long they would last. A few years they started to seize again so best to just get rebuilt ones or new...:-(

I welded a new back plate unto a housing and used just a gasket. However, i have a micro seep because of metal warpage. I always just use RTV from now on. Now if you don't weld on the axle housing...You maybe fine with just a gasket but I will never risk it again. :-)

These ones on the rack Just a moment... At least you can get a part number..:-) This says these 2 are available These lines run to the rack.. Just a moment... I know if you loose the pressure line... best to buy Aftermarket and save some $$ as the oem lines are extremely Expensive.... :yield:

Fair enough....I am just hoping its just the starter and not the back of the key contact etc. As why I stated everything else checks out. As this happened to me once. I ended up replacing a starter for nothing. :-(

Most likely the plunger and contacts in the solenoid are warn out. That is what Was wrong with the last one a rebilt.. Life on starters and alternators are 180 to 250K ... :-) So you are right in the window. Did it have nothing or a single click when you tried to start?? Dead giveaway the...

I am suspecting the plastic rod holder broke as Spartacus suggested, and the rod fell out of the lock assembly. Would explain the friction. However, like phattyduck says. Not easy to work on at all. Especially if you cant open the door at all. :-(

The wiring can snap and still be in the insulated. The wires mostly break and sort in that wire boot you call the snorkel. They actually are in the door lock assembly. I personally never seen one fail.. However, they can rarely and with the age of these now.. Very possible.

I agree its either wiring in the door jam or the actuator.

How does your gear grease look? I wound try to use a mechanic stethoscope and narrow down exactly where that sound is coming from.