I have rebuilt a few calipers just to see how long they would last. A few years they started to seize again so best to just get rebuilt ones or new...:-(
I welded a new back plate unto a housing and used just a gasket. However, i have a micro seep because of metal warpage. I always just use RTV from now on. Now if you don't weld on the axle housing...You maybe fine with just a gasket but I will never risk it again. :-)
These ones on the rack
Just a moment...
At least you can get a part number..:-) This says these 2 are available
These lines run to the rack..
Just a moment...
I know if you loose the pressure line... best to buy Aftermarket and save some $$ as the oem lines are extremely Expensive....
:yield:
Fair enough....I am just hoping its just the starter and not the back of the key contact etc. As why I stated everything else checks out. As this happened to me once. I ended up replacing a starter for nothing. :-(
Most likely the plunger and contacts in the solenoid are warn out. That is what Was wrong with the last one a rebilt.. Life on starters and alternators are 180 to 250K ... :-) So you are right in the window.
Did it have nothing or a single click when you tried to start?? Dead giveaway the...
I am suspecting the plastic rod holder broke as Spartacus suggested, and the rod fell out of the lock assembly. Would explain the friction. However, like phattyduck says. Not easy to work on at all. Especially if you cant open the door at all. :-(
The wiring can snap and still be in the insulated. The wires mostly break and sort in that wire boot you call the snorkel.
They actually are in the door lock assembly. I personally never seen one fail.. However, they can rarely and with the age of these now.. Very possible.
That sounds like another issue brewing. 2001 and 2002 have motorized throttle. May want to see if cleaning it will help as your stepper motor maybe having issues. Can happen..:-(