Recent content by DarthRevarder

NAPA premium rotors and I've never had the lines disconnected but I'm the third owner.

About 110k. Would I feel that even with light brake pressure?

I average about 14 in my stock 4Runner with a remanufactured motor with less than 25k on it. Normal driving, regular gas.

Just replaced my front pads and rotors for the second time in less than 11 months and immediately after leaving the drive way to bed them in I had a shake and it's no better than before replacing. My old pads and rotors we're FRIED so they had to be done but I'd really like that shake to go...

I'm selling the left over parts from putting my new motor in. All parts have 87,000 miles on them and look like new. All off 5vzfe Cam Gears left and right: $30 Timing Belt pulleys: $30 Heads (still have valves installed): $75 Cams: $75 Oil pan: $10 Water Pump: $20 Valve Covers: $20-Sold Oil...

My motor was out of Tacoma and they don't put the oil coolers on them from this particular engine builder due to cost. They don't use the original cooler to avoid any contamination to a brand new motor. I'm sure they cool just fine but I'm not concerned about my motor being without one.

The new motor I just put in came without one and so far so good. I don't really see how that small of a cooler really does all that much. Seems like one of those things the manufacturer thinks sounds good on paper but when you need to replace them they run you around $800.

I calls the engine builder and he stood behind his product. Paid for labor up to $60 an hour, I couldn't have asked for anything more than that. It ended up being the exhaust cam on the passenger side wasn't installed properly therefore leaving valves open. It's running flawlessly now. No CEL's...

Big ol' update for you guys. So my motor has been in and ready to rock. Or so I thought. Once I went to start it up it wouldn't run hardly at all. Misfiring, smoking etc. I was pretty much fed up with it and had it towed to my favorite mechanic. Upon his inspection cylinders 2,4 and 6 have 0...

I was thinking the same thing but it won't even run long enough to throw codes or anything. It just sputters and dies unless I keep it running which it doesn't like either. Everything is hooked up right. My mechanic buddy is stopping by after work to give it a look.

I found the problem, a plug for the ECU was loose and not seated all the way. Spark now and starts but has a terrible idle. I've checked my firing order for my coil packs and it all checks out. I'm curious of vacuum.

No spark issues prior to build and all sensors are plugged in. I'll check fuses. Is there anything special I had to do when I installed my crank and cam sensors?

5vzFE 1999 1999 Rebuilt block with all new bottom end and new valve train. Timing belt is new and both cams are at TDC and crank's at 0.

No love? I took work off to try and get it all buttoned up tomorrow.

Everything's hooked up. I just went through and checked all connectors for ignition. Unplugged all coil packs and reseated.