Recent content by drychlik1

Only one ground realy for this circuit. It is in the driver kick panel next to the fuse block, with 2 white w/black wires going to it. I would be more inclined to lean toward the combination switch. which is going to be in the steering column. You can test the circuits easily w/ a test light...

That was my assumption, just needed a sounding board. Probably going to just disable/bypass for now. And once I get it on the road I'll get some manual hubs to convert it.

I have a theory that when you initially press the pedal the vacuum is building in the booster, but your master cylinder could have a pitted cylinder causing slow application of the brakes. as it then applies the brakes, you get the pedal "push-back." But, my first thought would be to cap the...

First of all welcome! You will have to establish your engagement system first. Look at the front driver side of the front differential. Is there a vacuum diaphragm mounted to the axle tube right by the diff? Either way I think it is going to be a problem in the differential carrier or pinion...

With all due respect, you are the type of guy I was looking to buy my T4R from. You know what you have, but are so frustrated you just want to dump it. Possibly to the first person waving cash in your face. Then I go home and spend 3 weekends and a couple hundred bucks to have a KickA** fishing...

Not to mentio a buddy or two with abilities that you don't have will usually work for some beer and pizza which bumps the price about $100.

So my first and most important task with my new 2nd Gen is to get the 4wd functioning properly. I have verified operation of all the elctrical component(after having to replace the ADD relay) The VSV's are operating properly and I am producing about 18" of vaccum at the front differential...

Just purchased a '92 3.0 5 speed 4x4 last week as a father's day gift from the wife and kids. Will post pics shortly. Gonna be diagnosing A/C and ADD failures tonight. Other than that, it's ready for the beach.