Recent content by I_bRAD

Update: It is entirely possible to change the line that runs behind the gas tank without removing anything. All you have to do is jack it up by the control arm mounts so the rear axle drops down, then you have enough room to pull out the old line and fish the new one in. It took longer for me to...

True enough, my hobby too but I have lots of other hobbies- some of them requiring the truck to be on the road so I can use it! maybe I need to follow your lead and buy a few more 4runners ;)

I'm not terrible at welding but not sure I want to go that route. Between the body and the frame I'd probably do better to find a southern truck. A potential option would be a southern body onto my current frame, but I don't have the equipment to do a body swap or really the time to do it.

I probably don't want to see what the frame is like by the gas tank. In fact, If I were to drop the tank I'd be concerned about breaking bolts off. The truck is getting pretty bad rust wise. I can't justify a new truck for the amount I use it so I'm seeing this repair as more of a 'well it's...

Those pictures are super helpful. Thanks! The only clip I haven't laid eyes on at this point is the one on top of the coil. I bet if I take the wheel off I can get my hand in there. Seems likely I could do it without dropping the tank. Maybe even just have to remove the skid plate. Feed in from...

We'll see I guess. I just dropped the spare and don't think I can get it all but will crawl under and take a better look. It's not actually the ones on the axle, it's the one that goes from the front to the rubber hose above the axle. Going to replace pretty much all of the lines so at least I...

Question: Is it necessary to remove the fuel tank to replace the brake line that runs to the rear axle from the front union just ahead of the tank? Was thinking it was time to replace the brake lines soon, but one just failed so I guess that forces my hand! Thanks for any help or tips. Edit-...

Apparently the system can't suck all of the fluid out of the reservoir as I still had a bit in the bottom so wasn't too concerned, but when I actually opened up the rad and filled it I had to add quite a bit. For a few bucks worth of coolant I say do it!

Sounds reasonable. I still can't figure out why the fan would flex towards the engine instead of away from it though as the reaction force should be opposite to the fan direction! Will keep an eye out for a used one perhaps; That's $100 I could use for something else at the moment...

Solved. The gauge isn't the dummy! The prolem was behind the steering wheel. Not sure what's up with the fan, but I'm not going to fix it until something breaks. It only flexes that much when I hit >4000 rpm which pretty much never happens during use. The problem was low coolant. I didn't see...

Still overheating at speed, although not as bad. Took it for a spin last night and I was seeing ~220F Could get it down to 215 if I turned on the heaters. That was at 50mph, which is about the top speed this thing ever sees.

Do you agree a weak fan would only affect idle temps though? I will have to look more carefully for a leak. I keep it in my wood shed so any leaks wouldn't be obvious on the ground...

coming up on 9 years and the cap was replaced at that time too. I will bashfully admit that was likely the last time the coolant was changed too! I only drive it 5000kms a year though so it doesn't get a lot of miles.

Haven't tried to stick anything in the fan, but it does seem to 'roar' like you said at start. I am concerned that something is allowing enough flex for the fan to hit the engine though, especially since I'd expect the fan to flex away from the engine, and not towards it. Can't feel any play in...

My dummy dash gauge informed me that my truck was overheating, looking for some help diagnosing the issue as I can't see anything obvious: Fan clutch isn't great. When I stop the engine (hot or cold) the fan continues to spin for a moment. Additionally, if I rev it when it is cold the fan...