Brake line replacement question

[I_bRAD]

Question: Is it necessary to remove the fuel tank to replace the brake line that runs to the rear axle from the front union just ahead of the tank?

Was thinking it was time to replace the brake lines soon, but one just failed so I guess that forces my hand!

Thanks for any help or tips.

Edit- and is 2 quarts enough fluid to fill the system and bleed?

 

[zedjr]

i don't think it is but am not totally sure.

 

[I_bRAD]

I saw a video on YT and the person only dropped the spare tire and was able to replace the rear brake line. Definitely use a proper flare wrench - I only paid $5 and it was the best investment that I made in a while.

I don't remember how much fluid I used last time but I do think 1 quart is enough but 2 would be the best to have just in case (i'm assuming you're are bleeding the entire system).

We'll see I guess. I just dropped the spare and don't think I can get it all but will crawl under and take a better look. It's not actually the ones on the axle, it's the one that goes from the front to the rubber hose above the axle.

Going to replace pretty much all of the lines so at least I won't have to fight with stuck fittings.

 

[brillo_76]

I dropped the tank in 3 of my 5 3rd gen. to replace the brake line and fix the frame.

One of mine I PO just slid a line through without clipping it and put rubber sleeves on the line and zip tied it in place.

I mostly just get the OEM lines and paint them very well drop the tank clean and paint the frame. Clean up the tanks and paint them thoroughly and put the line with new plastic clips to hold the line. Then put tank back in.

To answer your question you can get a line through there an happens hazard way without pulling the tank.

Plus with the tank out you can check that frame area throughly and repair if necessary so the lower control arm bracket dosent come loose.

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[sleepydad]

Question: Is it necessary to remove the fuel tank to replace the brake line that runs to the rear axle from the front union just ahead of the tank?

Was thinking it was time to replace the brake lines soon, but one just failed so I guess that forces my hand!

Thanks for any help or tips.

Edit- and is 2 quarts enough fluid to fill the system and bleed?

here is a shot when I did my frame swap

https://i.imgur.com/ih4oJsd.jpg

and this one shows it from the back side

https://i.imgur.com/wK9pYBB.jpg

you can totally do it without dropping the tank but you might need to bring extra cash for the swear jar? also I think you might want to slip it in from the rear? you might have trouble doing the clips by the tank they are pretty tight and will be brittle? post back and tell us how it goes?

 

[I_bRAD]

here is a shot when I did my frame swap

https://i.imgur.com/ih4oJsd.jpg

and this one shows it from the back side

https://i.imgur.com/wK9pYBB.jpg

you can totally do it without dropping the tank but you might need to bring extra cash for the swear jar? also I think you might want to slip it in from the rear? you might have trouble doing the clips by the tank they are pretty tight and will be brittle? post back and tell us how it goes?

Those pictures are super helpful. Thanks! The only clip I haven't laid eyes on at this point is the one on top of the coil. I bet if I take the wheel off I can get my hand in there. Seems likely I could do it without dropping the tank. Maybe even just have to remove the skid plate. Feed in from the rear seems like the best option.

Will update once I've completed it... I have a feeling I won't get my parts by the weekend but we'll see I guess.

Edit: I wish my frame looked like yours :/

 

[RumHam26]

I did this without dropping the tank. It's a pain in the ass to get everything fed through but it's possible - pay attention to how the old ones come out.

 

[garn79]

did mine last yr, wo dropping tank. Getting lines back into clips on frame was a bit tricky but doable. Fed from rear, used long stick with flex, taped to new line, pull/push etc. Used framing square and clothes hanger to pop lines in and out of clips. wire to align lines then twist square to pop into place, not that bad.

 

[I_bRAD]

I dropped the tank in 3 of my 5 3rd gen. to replace the brake line and fix the frame.

One of mine I PO just slid a line through without clipping it and put rubber sleeves on the line and zip tied it in place.

I mostly just get the OEM lines and paint them very well drop the tank clean and paint the frame. Clean up the tanks and paint them thoroughly and put the line with new plastic clips to hold the line. Then put tank back in.

To answer your question you can get a line through there an happens hazard way without pulling the tank.

Plus with the tank out you can check that frame area throughly and repair if necessary so the lower control arm bracket dosent come loose.

Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk

I probably don't want to see what the frame is like by the gas tank. In fact, If I were to drop the tank I'd be concerned about breaking bolts off. The truck is getting pretty bad rust wise. I can't justify a new truck for the amount I use it so I'm seeing this repair as more of a 'well it's only half a month's payment on a new 4runner' The frame does look OK compared to the body at least. I only drive it maybe 3000kms/year and keep it in the woodshed (when it's not completely full of wood) so even while it keeps rusting away I think there's a few years left in it.

 

[brillo_76]

I probably don't want to see what the frame is like by the gas tank. In fact, If I were to drop the tank I'd be concerned about breaking bolts off. The truck is getting pretty bad rust wise. I can't justify a new truck for the amount I use it so I'm seeing this repair as more of a 'well it's only half a month's payment on a new 4runner' The frame does look OK compared to the body at least. I only drive it maybe 3000kms/year and keep it in the woodshed (when it's not completely full of wood) so even while it keeps rusting away I think there's a few years left in it.

Yes. That happens. My one didnt have any inner frame left. So I cleaned it all out and fix it.

If someone can weld the frames can be fixed and completely redone. However that's very time consuming but you can seal off all the holes that cause the frame rot to begin with. In the rust belt. Its becomes an issue of repair the frame. Replace it. Or junk the vehicle..

6 to 7 years ago I couldn't weld at all. Now I can completely rebuld the frames.

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[I_bRAD]

Yes. That happens. My one didnt have any inner frame left. So I cleaned it all out and fix it.

If someone can weld the frames can be fixed and completely redone. However that's very time consuming but you can seal off all the holes that cause the frame rot to begin with. In the rust belt. Its becomes an issue of repair the frame. Replace it. Or junk the vehicle..

6 to 7 years ago I couldn't weld at all. Now I can completely rebuld the frames.

Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk

I'm not terrible at welding but not sure I want to go that route. Between the body and the frame I'd probably do better to find a southern truck. A potential option would be a southern body onto my current frame, but I don't have the equipment to do a body swap or really the time to do it.

 

[brillo_76]

I'm not terrible at welding but not sure I want to go that route. Between the body and the frame I'd probably do better to find a southern truck. A potential option would be a southern body onto my current frame, but I don't have the equipment to do a body swap or really the time to do it.

Yes. Maybe slightly cheaper. However, with they way inflation going. It may not be for long sadly. It my hobby. So that's why I do it.

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[I_bRAD]

Yes. Maybe slightly cheaper. However, with they way inflation going. It may not be for long sadly. It my hobby. So that's why I do it.

Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk

True enough, my hobby too but I have lots of other hobbies- some of them requiring the truck to be on the road so I can use it! maybe I need to follow your lead and buy a few more 4runners

 

[DreadPirateJon]

Yes. That happens. My one didnt have any inner frame left. So I cleaned it all out and fix it.

If someone can weld the frames can be fixed and completely redone. However that's very time consuming but you can seal off all the holes that cause the frame rot to begin with. In the rust belt. Its becomes an issue of repair the frame. Replace it. Or junk the vehicle..

6 to 7 years ago I couldn't weld at all. Now I can completely rebuld the frames.

Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk

This is the one spot I have left to fix on my frame (Besides for about the hitch, which seeing as Im towing like 5k I probably should have also fixed) Just havent been looking forward to fighting all those rusty bolts to drop the tank.

 

[DreadPirateJon]

Ive replaced all of the front and rear lines (not the one running to the rear though) with OEMs and they were super cheap. Like 6 bucks a piece.

 

[brillo_76]

Ive replaced all of the front and rear lines (not the one running to the rear though) with OEMs and they were super cheap. Like 6 bucks a piece.

Yes I use OEM lines because of their costs is reasonable. I paint them thoroughly when before putting them in and try to keep them covered with rust inhibitors.

If I had to make lines.. I would use nick copper lines with Stainless still Flange Nuts. That way you never have to worry about those lines ever again they cant rust up.

 

[brillo_76]

This is the one spot I have left to fix on my frame (Besides for about the hitch, which seeing as Im towing like 5k I probably should have also fixed) Just haven't been looking forward to fighting all those rusty bolts to drop the tank.

Start soaking.. Most will come out.. Most likely the skid plate frame bolt will snap off.. The gas tank strap bolt will snap off no matter what you do. As All of my 3 both those snapped off as they rusted and swelled in the nuts.

The two rear skid plate bolts are a 50/50 of coming out and snapping.

 

[D'arce]

6 to 7 years ago I couldn't weld at all. Now I can completely rebuld the frames.

I can relate. On my 96 I just replaced both rear coil bucket brackets on the frame. Had to pull the axle and weld a new cover on it as well. If these trucks are going to stay on the road, welding becomes an essential skill.

 

[brillo_76]

I can relate. On my 96 I just replaced both rear coil bucket brackets on the frame. Had to pull the axle and weld a new cover on it as well. If these trucks are going to stay on the road, welding becomes an essential skill.

In the rust belt yes. How the weld of new cover go? I had one of those upper coil brackets come loose after a changed the cross member. I ended up bolting it down and then weld it back in. The environment is a little hard on the steel around here.

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[D'arce]

The cov er wasn't bad. I tried to do everything with the 3rd member installed but turns out I was afraid of nicking something important with the cutoff wheel. I filled the whole thing with metal while it was in there so I had to flush it with a bunch of brake cleaner and gear oil. Lesson learned. The third member weighs almost as much as the empty housing so it was definitely easier to install without it. This is all by myself so with a helper it would not be so bad.