Recent content by IFNg

For the larger/flatter surfaces, try this out (Norton strip disc): It does a good job of removing paint/rust without getting into the metal

Take a look: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/classifieds-buy-sell-anything-related-toyota-4runner-no-commercial-ads-please/85409-oem-3rd-gen-suspension-fzj80-springs.html

If the holes were to contribute to the friction, I think at most the gains would be negligible. F(friction) = F(clamp) x mu(brake pad-rotor), and if the holes were to provide extra friction, they would just be worn down along with he rest of the rotor. That said, the brake pad will have a...

Your increased braking performance is probably due to your pads and not your rotors. And I wouldn't write off all non-OEM rotors either. Also important and not mentioned as often is to bed the pads/rotors per the manufacturer's instructions: Brake Tech - Brake Pad and Rotor Bed-In Procedures

Sometimes the oil leaks from the valve cover so I'd check up on those as well. Do yourself a favor a get a breaker bar (HF has a few cheap options) and thread penetrant (PB Blaster, Screwloose, etc.). As for the grease fitting, adjust the adapter until it is slightly snug against the zerk...

Check over on TTORA classifieds for the e-locker motor

M1 dino or synthetic? If you really want to know a good OCI send in a sample to Blackstone: Blackstone Labs

Had to do the same on a Tacoma (went from M1 GL4/5 to MT90). The Toyota/Aisin MTs do much better with a GL4 fluid vs. GL4/5. BTW, if anyone needs to pick up some MT90, Summit carries it for a good price.

Get a bottle jack and place it under the bump stop. That should give you the extra room to put in the LC coils.

$24.47 for an OEM filter from ToyotaPartsPeople.com - Genuine Toyota Parts and Toyota Accessories

Use the chart to cross-reference and find the corresponding PSI, then adjust if there's any wear issues

TTT. Open to offers

I'd browse the classifieds on IH8Mud as well as post a WTB add

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