Recent content by Jwpete

Issue is finally resolved. Pulled the trans back out and re-torqued the pressure plate. Turns out I babied those bolts since I didn't have a torque wrench and they were not tightened enough and the pressure plate was not clamped all the way down against the flywheel which I guess gave me too...

For what it's worth, during the clutch swap I pulled the TOB fork out and cleaned it up with a wire wheel because it was covered in old grease and clutch gunk. I think I would have noticed any major cracks, bends, or damage on the fork while i was cleaning it up, though to be fair, I wasn't...

We bled the clutch by pumping it in and out and then holding it to the floor, cracking the bleeder and letting the fluid come out, and then closing the bleeder before releasing the pedal. This avoids sucking up air bubbles no? Or would there potentially still be bubbles in there?

Its hard to tell if the line is bulging, probably should just go ahead and replace it to remove a variable. My gut says it would not be getting as much travel at the slave as it is if the line were giving a lot. The amount of movement from the pedal to the slave cylinder seems pretty linear...

the friction disk only fit one way into the clutch cover and it was labled flywheel side which went against the flywheel, so to the best of my knowledge and following the FSM, It is installed correctly.

Yeah, pushrod fully extended I couldn't even shift into first and pushrod all the way out it shifts into gears but barely.

Hoping for some tips and suggestions from the more experienced T4R owners out there. Any tips or suggestions welcome. Recently completed a full clutch swap and transmission service in my 98' 3.4L 5 speed. The following items were replaced: Clutch, Throwout Bearing, Pilot Bearing, Flywheel...