It appears they really don't have locking tangs that can be retracted. Almost looks like a push in and force like heck to remove. I added a bit of silicone past and pinched with channel locks and pushed. They are discontinued so I didn't want to break the.
The clips to hold the bottom of the license plate are kicking my ass. I can't break them as they are no longer available. These little clips are basically the last parts to remove as we start paint prep. Any tips??
Outstanding, Thanks The sliders came out pretty well. As the instructions described, The putty knife to loosen the seal allowed the fairly easy removal. Cleaning the old seal was the most time consuming. Now I'm stuck on the quarter windows. All fasteners removed yet the window is fighting...
I'm preparing for a long overdue respray and I want to remove the windows in the top. I removed all nuts and screws and I can separate a bit but it wont come out. 2 studs at top and one center bottom. Any tips to remove I sure don't want to screw this thing up. Thanks
Its a bit old so hopefully you resolved the 52 code. I went through this on my sons 92. Tried the same things as you, replaced the sensor and the wire harness from the sensor to above the intake. Still failed. I finally made a shielded harness and fished it through the firewall to verify the...
Thanks, I did get a TB code but cleared it. The truck runs fine, smooth, plenty of power just wont idle unless I have the A/C on. I do have some crusty coolant build up on the top of the TB. I check obvious things like the air box, vacuum leaks.
I went through the chase to resolve the knock sensor, code 52 CEL. I suggest you wire a replacement direct to the ECU before you take apart the top if the engine. I did it to many times. I found the shielded cable between the ECU and the engine connector was at fault.