Recent content by keph13

Any chance you have a link to the HID projectors? Was it fairly straightforward? I like the look of these but am definitely out-lumened on the highway.

I'm assuming this would involve replacing them with exhaust pipe rather than just leaving the headers bare. I'd like to know the answer as well, if anyone's done this - I've had one clog and replaced it due to the state I'm in, and it would be good to know down the road if you can remove a cat...

I'll second the NSS - if you're in the northeast and want to make your life easier, make sure it slides off the rod it sits on. Mine is all gunked up right now, soaking it in PB blaster gets me about a week. I have the new part, but I haven't been able to get the old one off yet, and I'm leary...

It's worth checking the sunroof drains before getting too crazy - they're easy to access behind kick panels, and my passenger side was completely clogged with mud and blocked up after I noticed mold on the seatbelt. Also easy to check - pour water in each corner of the sunroof and see if it...

I did the exact same thing, and it sucked. I ended up dremeling away the nut from above, and feeding a new nut with loctite in when I installed the replacement. It was hours and hours of messing with it, though - if it happened now, I'd probably decide it was a great excuse for new LCAs.

You'll want to start by pulling the radio to see what you have to work with. The trim around the fan speed and temp dials pull straight back, and then the rest of the climate control panel will pull out. That exposes 4 bolts, after which the whole radio unit will pull out. I ran power from the...

FYI anyone doing this should look up gauge requirements - 10awg is way overkill for 100w - you only need 14 (since it's <10amps). The math works the same as in-house wiring. Also why I ran my two panels in series - they're nominally 12v panels, so that's 24v at 200w = 8 amps max, so 14awg is...

Yep, replacing the TC fixed my issue (although then they forgot a spring in the 4wd shifter, so it would fall sideways in 4x4 - so it had to go back :jump:)

This is interesting - I just brought mine in (under ToyotaCare warranty at 101,000) and they're replacing the torque converter. I was getting really bad shudder (honestly more like bucking) when accelerating between 1,500 and 2,000 rpm. Coasting or light acceleration - no problem, step on it -...

Good info! Mine is a 2010 living in the Northeast, so I'm mostly worried about gross leakage and less concerned with cosmetics :) The next one I'll be more particular about!

FWIW I just squirted a fairly significant glob of silicone into the washer before putting the bolts in (as well as setting the washers into a ring of silicone in the first place). I haven't been through too many rain storms, but no leaks thus far.

I'll PM you!

There's been some discussion on here that the red stuff on OEM bolts may not be loctite - but, of course, if a dealer installed it who knows. FWIW I just (yesterday) pulled the stock rack off my 2010, using an impact gun, and every bolt came out easily. So sounds like the installing dealer...

I ordered an Iceco after a bunch of research - seems to be somewhere in the middle of the price range, with a name brand compressor (5 year warranty). It hasn't arrived yet, I can update the thread when it does. This guy on Youtube: ICECO iCooler 3 In 1 Review! The $299 45qt 12v Compressor...

Hmm, I'd have to look. Usually I give a good tug, and if it doesn't pop off I start looking for screws.