Recent content by lightfreak

The instructions for the driver's door is on this thread, post #5 here's a direct link to it. https://www.toyota-4runner.org/2729778-post5.html The procedure is not much different actually between the front driver and passenger.

This problem only happens with '03-'04 4runner. If this is a ScanGauge you need to force it to read in ISO mode. Instructions are in the booklet that comes with it. The ABS computer and Yaw rate /Accel sensors go wacky when SG communicates using newer OBD protocol. Force it into ISO mode then...

If I recall correctly, it is just the 2 little screws holding that cover on. They were pretty corroded as you can see from my pics, but penetrating fluid and a good soak got them out easy. I think they might be the same screws as the ones holding the license plate light covers

Looks like your motor assembly orientation is off, might have to twist it around and see what happens. Here’s a photo from when I did mine, make note of the mounting tab for the motor assembly. Then try to replicate how the cables run.

Lower the rear window about 3/4 the way down, then Pull the cover off the tailgate, peel back the vapor barrier back a bit and unplug the 2 defroster connectors from the glass. Cover and secure them to prevent future electrical problems. The connectors are on the passenger side of the glass...

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Probably for the AC 110v port which I’m guessing u don’t have?

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The extra threads are normal. If it hasn’t leaked yet you’re good to go

Just tackled this job today. 10 year old LED bulbs have been flickering for a few months. Found 4 completely rusted out, disintegrating screws. I took the whole bezel off to make the job easier. Sprayed seafoam deep creep all over both ends. Gave it an hour to soak. Tried the dremel cut method...

If it's a quick chain rattle sound that goes away after a second or so then the oil filter's ADBV is not working or maybe the filter doesn't have one. Throw a new OEM Toyota filter on and see if that doesn't fix it. If we're talking a prolonged rattle then I'd start looking at oil pressure.

I got about 3 years out of the Walker exhaust before it fell apart. The welds rusted all the way through and the flanges deteriorated. Spray it with VHT Flameproof coating and you should get another year or 2 of service. How much longer do you intend to keep it?

I believe they're 10mm also, I had to drill 3 of them out and use nuts and washers with the new bolts.

Check the exhaust gaskets for leaks and look for holes before the down pipe. It’s not likely to be the upstream sensor triggering that code.

Quite a few threads are visible on mine