Recent content by nicnmike

I don't remember the direction exactly. Tightening it leans it out a little, so whichever way tightens the spring. Just mark the initial notch in case you want to go back, or the next owner wants to go back. I also tried the flamethrowers. One never worked right and neither did the two...

Mine was supposed to be that way too, but once you start pulling parts, it's hard to put it all back without wanting clean, scrub, replace, refurbish, upgrade.... Mostly because I don't want to have to do it again, or get stuck out in the woods somewhere.

You can pull the intake without pulling the heads, if that's what needs to be done. That pipe is actually one of the suggested parts to be replaced when doing something like the head gaskets since your that deep into it. If you need to pull the intake, you might want to replace some other...

last road trip I had, I got 17.8 on the interstate going about 70, without ac and pulling an empty utility trailer. I got 17.4 on the way back, but that was smaller highways with towns in between. I've tightened the maf 3 clicks and advanced the timing a few degrees--I feel that has helped.

Are you asking about spark plugs being clean? The easiest way I've found to check fuel injectors is to loosen all your spark plug wires on the cap and remove them one at a time to see if it makes any difference how the motor runs. Difference = good, no difference = bad. O'Rielly's loans out...

Just to rule it out, I'd pull the coolant lines off the throttle body and check to see if it's clogged. You don't have to drain the radiator to do it. One common area for a vacuum leak is the large tube that connects the afm to the tb. Taking it off and putting it back on starts to crack the...

You should start your own thread. That said, how did your truck run with it advanced at 25 degrees? I ask because when I tore my engine apart, I found that my crankshaft pulley had actually slipped so that the marks didn't line up like they were supposed to.

I've been thinking about getting my AC working too. Did you do all the work yourself, or did you bring it to a shop?

If fuel is coming out of the little hose, the vacuum line which is on top, then your regulator is shot and you need a new one. This happened to me and my truck would not start either. The bigger line is the return line and fuel should be coming out of that one.

depending on the temperature, it might not spray. My 3.0 loses pressure at the rail as soon as I turn it off. I've pretty much narrowed it down to a leaky injector (i hope). One test you can try is to engage the fuel pump for 7 to 10 seconds before a cold start (I'm not sure how that's done...

thanks! It's been fun to work on and drive. I've always wanted to take it out to Ocala NF, but never got around to it. I don't really need a mall crawler. If you know of anyone looking for a fun little truck, send them my way!

1990 Toyota 4runner V6 5-speed 4x4: Located in Gainesville, FL. This truck is awesome. I drive it almost daily. I've been to North Georgia with it three times since the rebuild. The 4x4 works great. I've bypassed all the vacuum actuated portions of it. This is a 27 year old vehicle (178k on the...

LED are directional. If the ground is common, and the positive is either from the low or high, it should work. Is that the problem you're having?

Just found this one on cl. No rust, but maybe termites! https://ocala.craigslist.org/cto/6092452488.html It's an 86, so it might have a solid front axle.

The pump doesn't run with the motor off and the key in the run position. With the key in the run position, jump the FP and B+ on the diagnostic terminal with a piece of wire, or paperclip. You should here the pump run.