Recent content by ølaf

Adding to this thread as it came up when I searched for answers to a similar problem. I've been dealing with an intermittent hard brake pedal as well. Usually my first 10 stops or so are pretty hard/weak, and it gets better after that. I bled and bled and bled, to no avail. Switched the check...

Thanks. I'll look into that pigtail. What's so strange though is the intermittent nature of it all. It's been fine for the last week - waiting for it to rear its ugly head again, and will then dig back into the door to catch it in the act. LOL.

Thanks @Briilo. How did you come to the conclusion that the lock rod was the culprit? That was my initial instinct too. I opened the door, there was some moisture in there, and I dried and taped the actuator off. But today it acted up in bone-dry conditions... Thx!

Hi all. '99 SR5. 300k. With fair bits of aftermarket wiring. I searched the threads and forums, and found a number of posts reporting this same problem, but could not find any mention of a definitely solution. So here it goes again, hoping that this will help me and others. Situation: Started...

Certainly worth a shot. You can also remove it, and put it into your freezer, then try to suck through it in the right direction, to see if the booster valve is the problem. Most people just swap them out with an OEM one, when they experience your symptoms. It's one of the cheaper parts to throw...

Reviving a very old thread. I'm in the same boat (and Denver as well). Can you share any experience? Did you find a tuning shop? Thanks! - Olaf

Hey man - reviving a very old thread.... Did you ever end up installing the 2.1 Pulley without fuel. mods? I'm in the front range as well, and do all my driving in the mountains, so ... contemplating the same thing. Doing the fuel pump doesn't sound very appealing. - olaf

Hmmmm .... do you really think a leak in the booster could cause a lean air-fuel ratio? How about just plugging that vacuum line or nipple, clearing the code, and see if it trips again? - olaf

HiLife - in my case, it ended up being glazed pads and rotors. No idea how/when that happened. Put on a new set of pads and rotors, and I'm back to business. Although, with the ceramic pads, it does take a few stops for them to really bite. Quick list of all my troubleshooting: - New OEM Brake...

Old thread, I know. But ... curious if these cheap sensors were the real deal, and if they lasted. I need 2 of those puppies as well...

Thanks guys. I changed the check valve and grommet as well. No change. Idle sits at 700 once warmed up. Vacuum on the warm engine in Denver, at 5280 ft reads 17 in. Apparently you loose 1 inch of pressure for every 1k in elevation, which puts both vacuum readings, from 5000 ft and 10000 ft, in...

Thanks gamefreak. I really wish it was the check valve. Swapped booster and check valve for OEM, and issue persists.

I solved the panic stop issue. Seems like my pads and rotors were glazed (I had less than 1 yo Stoptech drilled and slotted rotors and ceramic pads, which had been recommended to me. No clue on how the glazing happened. A new set of OEM pads and rotors gave me some good bite back on panic stops...

Hi all - I'm still trying to hunt down the source for my hard pedal on cold starts, particularly at high elevation. This morning, at 10,000ft, I measured the vacuum at the intake plenum where the brake booster gets its vacuum from. I believe you re supposed to get 16 - 20 in here. Instead, at...

Bumping this up, to see if anyone can confirm vacuum readings on their intake plenum. I read just 17 in on mine, which seems low. Should be 20 I believe? Could this lead to a loss of vacuum (hard pedal) when I stomp on it? Thanks!